I, like every one else, have a limited amount of vacation days during the year due to my full-time job. So when it comes to travel, I try and take advantage of my days as much as I can. It involves a lot of moving around and I don’t get to see every single aspect of a city, but I think I do a pretty good job at planning a cool vacation. So when I only have 1 week to spend in Sicily, I try and make the most of it by crafting the most all-encompassing 5 day Western Sicily itinerary possible. Being Italian and having visited Sicily over 3+ times now, I have an affinity for finding the real Italy, the authentic and local Italy. Because Sicily is a mix of Greek, Arab, Norman, Spanish and Teutonic cultures, the island offers something refreshingly different from your typical Italian province. To capture Sicily’s unique spirit, you need to go beyond the package destinations of Taormina, San Vito Lo Capo, and Siracusa. The real Sicily lies elsewhere in the off the beaten path cliffs of la Riserva dello Zingaro to the countryside hills in the center of Sicily…and this guide shows you just that.
How to get around Sicily?
My ultimate and all-encompassing 5 day Western Sicily itinerary involves renting a car. Unfortunately, if you wish to see the best, most iconic, and genuine spots in Italy, a car is mandatory. Getting around can otherwise be very limiting. I had a great experiencing finding an affordable car in Ibiza using Discover Cars. It was my first time using the service so I was a bit skeptical, but it turned out perfect. The car was great, service stellar, and the cost was were I wanted it to be. I promise, you will find a good deal with Discover Cars.
And if any of you are afraid of driving in Italy, please do not be scared. There is plenty of space on the roads and driving an automatic car is just as easy as driving anywhere else in the US. The only difficulty driving comes when you near a big city like Palermo, so we recommend parking on the outskirts of big historic cities.
Quick Navigation
~ Arrive in Sicily ~
After a 6 hour 30 minute plane ride from JFK to Milan (with a 2 hour delay) and an hour and a half flight from Milan to Palermo (which I almost missed due to the prior flights 2 hour delay) I finally landed in one of my favorite Italian provinces – Sicily. The drive to our hotel near San Vito Lo Capo and la Riserva Naturale Dello Zingaro in our small Skoda rental car was a true Sicilian awakening. Just a few miles short of the property we came across one of Sicily’s famous views of San Vito Lo Capo. The sun was setting making for the perfect “Welcome to Sicily” postcard picture.
Check-In: Hotel Baglio La Porta
Where to Stay Near San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily: Hotel Baglio La Porta
Sicily’s old aristocracy can be relived across a select and rare number of properties across Sicily that still maintain this traditional sense of history, culture, and gourmet cuisine that Baroni (royal or noble baron’s) once lived. That’s why I chose to stay in one of these rare properties – Hotel Baglio la Porta. Aside from it’s luxury accommodations and pool overlooking the sea, what I was most excited for was the restaurant at Baglio la Porta. I had heard so many good things about the restaurant and it’s culinary style that I had to taste it for myself. My favorite dish were the paccheri di frutti di mare, this dish was everything to brag about to your friends.
Hotel Baglio la Porta is one example of the jaw-dropping cultural jewels to be found scattered across Sicily. A stone’s throw away from one of the most beautiful Nature Reserve’s in Italy, it is the perfect, secluded and historic stay for anyone looking for an upscale historic stay in the rural cliffs of the Sicilian Oceanside.
~ Day 1: Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro & Erice ~
Morning: Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro
Sicily’s Crown Jewel: Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro
The next morning (or on your first day), you will visit the infamous Riserva Naturale Dello Zingaro, which is preserved by the World Wildlife Foundation (WWF). Get your hiking shoes on and come equipped with bottles of water, sunscreen, a hat and a bathing suit. As you peruse the various grottos and Calas, or coves, aligning the Mediterranean Sea. It is a gorgeous sight, but can get very crowded in the summer, so I recommend you visit it early in the morning or late in the afternoon also to avoid the Sicilian heat (shade is hard to come by in the park).
Check-In: Erice Pietre Antiche
After a morning exploring the UNESCO Nature Reserve of “Zingaro,” we decided to escape the brutal summer Sicilian heat and head up the San Giuliano Mountain to the medieval town of Erice, also known as the town of 100 churches. Some people would urge you to stop by San Vito Lo Capo on your way there, but my mother and I gave the beach town a go…and don’t recommend you put it on your travel itinerary when there are places like Scopello and Castellammare you can see instead!
We got to Erice via our rental car, but you can easily reach the town via the cable car or funivia from Trapani. The 10-minute cable car journey offers breathtaking views of Trapani, the Egadi islands, and the sea, and drops you off right at the old town entrance, Porta Trapani.
Where to Stay in Erice, Sicily: Erice Pietre Antiche
Erice Pietre Antiche is a 100+ year old property turned into an absolute gem that retains classical character while adding modern convenience. We were picked up by the inn keeper Massimo in a true Sicilian experience (since the streets are pedestrian only). Imagine a huge van cramming its way through narrow streets with pedestrians and motorcyclists. Housed in a former church and merchants hostel, this 4 apartment property is dripping with historic charm from head to toe. The experience though begins as Massimo opens the door to the open-air courtyard, which sets the mood with the lovely potted plants and flowers, romantic staircase, cushioned tables and chairs and medieval feel.
Afternoon: Erice
Rediscovering Sweet Traditions in Medieval Erice
We spent the evening on this cool mountaintop exploring the narrow cobblestone streets, medieval Castle of Venus, the town of 100 churches, and the old yet highly acclaimed Italian pastry shop Maria Grammatico for one of her famous genovesi. With so much to do, you won’t regret sleeping in a charming stone historic inn to really take in this small Italian cities charm. Due to its small population and isolation from the city of Trapani, Erice doesn’t have schools, Laundromats, or even it’s own bread bakery! For all these amenities, the town needs to head down to Trapani. It is truly a town that has remained at its core true to its “antique ways.” The locals motto here is con calma – no rush. So do not come here expecting everyone to be fast like in New York, things here are slow and people take their time. But that’s what your likely in Sicily for, to slow down and enjoy the small things in life.
~ Day 2: Salt Pans & Valley of the Temples ~
Morning: Saline di Nubia (Nubian Salt Pans)
A Visit to the Sicilian Salt Pans – Saline di Nubia
After a quiet and restful night in the mountains, make your way down the opposite side of the mountain heading West towards Trapani. When you’re enjoying the beauty of Western Sicily, it is important to steep yourself not only in its history, but also in the economic history that allowed this Italian island to flourish. Salt has been an economic source of revenue for Sicily since the 14th century, so it is important to visit the gorgeous pyramids and mountains of salt in the iconic salt pans that line the Western coast. A stop at the most famous salt pan, Le Saline di Nubia, its museum and restaurant that offers you food cooked with their very own salt is a must.
Spend the afternoon driving down the West coast down South to Agrigento. A lot of towns line the coast, so feel free to stop by and explore one or two on the way down including Marsala or Mazara del Vallo. If you want to go directly to Agrigento, cut through mid-Sicily and save yourself an hour.
Check-In: Fontes Episcopi
Where to Stay near Agrigento, Sicily: Fontest Episcopi Bio Resort
Once arrived, check-in to an agriturismo, an upscale Italian farm-stay, for a true taste of Western Sicily (literally and metaphorically!). We stayed at restored Bioresort named Fontes Episcopi just on the outskirts of Agrigento. Experience essential oil baths, homemade soap and shampoo, and food cooked directly with ingredients from the farm surrounding you, all in one place. I had booked a stay at this intimate 7 room local Bio Resort and restored 19th century farmhouse because of it’s simple message of reconnecting people with nature and going back to a simpler way of life.
We spent the evening relaxing at the property, exploring the properties garden with it’s wandering chickens, guinea fowl and peacocks, and taking a restorative dip in the holistic gebbia. A gebbia is a natural basin that was used to collect rain water back in the day. Today it is used as a refreshing “dipping pool” sprinkled with the orto or garden’s own handmade rosemary oil, lavender oil, orange blossom and rose petals all added to help heal and restore the body. Dinner is at the property tonight and is made by the locals from the area. Everything they cook is made using ingredients from their garden and if they don’t have it, they turn to their neighboring farms for the remaining ingredients. Our four-course meal was UNBELIEVABLE…but I don’t want to spoil the full story here…
~ Day 3: Scala dei Turchi & Valley of the Temples ~
Morning: Scala dei Turchi
The #1 Must See Beach in Sicily: Scala dei Turchi, Turkish Steps
Get ready for some Instagrammable sun and fun at Scala dei Turchi or Stairs of the Turks, another big attraction in Agrigento. The white rock formation in the shape of stairs forms a stark contrast against the turquoise and azure waters of the Mediterranean. Tip: This iconic white washed cliff can get crowded pretty quickly during the day so try and come during the earlier hours of the morning.
Afternoon: Cattedrale del Sale
Steps away from Agrigento in Realmonte is la Cattedrale del Sale, or the Cathedral of Salt. Found 60 meters below sea level in this salt mine, lies a halite cathedral. Everything from the altar to the crucifix and statues of Santa Barbara, protector of all miners, is exclusively made in this salt. If you dare, I recommend you visit this unique cathedral!
Evening: Valley of the Temples
What to Expect at the Valley of the Temples, Agrigento
We’d relaxed enough…it was time to now immerse ourselves in the heart and foundations of the city—Valley of the Temples. This UNESCO World Heritage Site offers the world’s best-preserved temples. Perched high up on a cliff, you can walk through all 7 temples till 11PM at night! So if walking for 2-3 hours in the hot Sicilian sun is not your thing and you’d rather be down by the beach, come after hours and enjoy the views of the gorgeously lit up temples and city of Agrigento. We went during sunset so we could head on over to dinner next door right after.
Dinner: La Terrazza Degli Dei
Chef Salvatore Gambuzza is Reinventing the Sicilian Kitchen
People like me, who spend their evening searching for the perfect restaurant, local yet reinvented dining establishments, puzzling over multipage menus and gorging (or trying not to) on various local cuisines, often dream of escaping to a certain kind of restaurant. This imaginary restaurant is heavenly placed, exclusive enough that you feel like you have the whole restaurant to yourself, with a view that is exceptional, food that is all locally made and sourced, a staff that isn’t excessively docile and prices that aren’t excessively high. La Terrazza Degli Dei, which resides in the 5-star Hotel Villa Athena, a villa once owned by a noble princess in the 18th century, is this kind of place. Terrazza Degli Dei literally translates to the ‘Terrace of the Gods,’ and when you dine here, you definitely feel like one.
Everything is made locally and in-house at Villa Athena with 90% of their products coming from their very own garden. As we sat down, we ordered a glass of rosé and waited for our delectable five-course Territorial Tasting Menu on the Terrazza Degli Dei‘s vast terrace for al fresco dining. The glass of Sicilian wine complemented the timeless view in the distance of the Valley of the Temples. It is the only restaurant with a view of this stunning UNESCO World Heritage site.
~ Day 4: Relax in the Countryside at Masseria Susafa ~
All-Day: Masseria Susafa
Checking Into Masseria Susafa: A Heartwarming Stay in the Heart of Sicily
After all this moving around, it’s time to relax and unwind mid-trip and embrace the solitude of the Sicilian countryside. Make your way deep into the heart of the Sicilian countryside, where all you will see is small quaint villages, farms, hay balls, and rolling fields for miles. Finally you will reach Masseria Susafa, a countryside getaway with some of the best cuisine Western Sicily has to offer. For a true farm stay experience, unwind in this luxurious and historic stay for a full day. Read a book by the pool, take a walk through the fields, or taking a cooking class with the locals, no matter the experience you will not regret it.
~ Day 5: Cefalù & Palermo ~
Morning: Cefalù
6 Things to Do in Cefalù, Sicily
After a restorative stay at Masseria Susafa, it’s time to hit the road for one last time. On our way out of the countryside we stop by the postcard-perfect Arab fishing village of Cefalù for a walk of the village and a quick lunch. Cefalù is known as one of the Sicily’s biggest tourist attractions, right alongside Taormina, so I was skeptical to visit it when I put it on my Sicilian itinerary. My mother and I decided to visit, hoping that it had retained its old town charm—and luckily for us, it had. Since the town is small, we spent an afternoon wandering and checking off things we wanted to do in the colorful village with a sparkling sea and pretty harbor.
Afternoon & Dinner: Palermo
Things to Do in Palermo, Sicily in an Afternoon
After a morning spent in the adorable village of Cefalù, we stopped by our final stop in our 5 day Western Sicily itinerary – the big city of Palermo, right next to the airport we were going to depart from the net day. Here we only hit the historic sites and spent the night dining in one of the narrow cobblestone streets before returning our rental car and hitting the bed before our early flight. I personally didn’t think more than an afternoon was needed in Palermo, so enjoyed the short time we spent there seeing the iconic stops and grabbing an insane last night dinner at a local pasta spot in a hidden alleyway tucked away in this historic streets of Palermo.
There is so much more to see in Western Sicily, but I think that I have covered a lot of ground in little time from big cities, quaint fishing villages, medieval castles and cities on mountaintops, Bioresort and countryside farm stays, historic sites and Instagram-worthy beaches. Feel free to extend your stay and dive into each town even more, but do keep in mind that many of these villages are small and can be seen in full within a day.
11 comments
These photos are unreal! It might sound silly, although I’ve always wanted to go here, I never knew it was this beautiful!! Thank you so much for sharing.
Will save this for our trip there
Looks amazing. Hoping to do Sicily in 2019.
Sicily looks amazing! Your photos are gorgeous!
Great advice and gorgeous pictures.
I want to go there so bad. Now I have ideas of where to go….How fun!
Such gorgeous photographs!
I pinned!
Hey there! This is an amazing post. You have beautiful pictures!!
I’ve been to Sicily so many times, it never stops amazing me.
I so want to visit Sicily! Even more after seeing these photos. My mom’s family is from there and I’ve always thought it would be cool to see where the family is from.