Florence may be packed year-round, but here’s the thing: the city itself refuses to look worn out. It’s unspoiled in the sense that Florence takes obsessive, almost tender care of its bones, from its art, palazzi, courtyards, and even the storefronts and interiors that still cradle original fresco details like they’re part of the window display. The preservation here is borderline stubborn, in the best possible way. So yes, you’ll weave through crowds no matter the season, but the setting? Still flawless. And that’s exactly why I’ll always insist it belongs on your itinerary.
Florence is small, but dense. Fitting the cultural weight of this incredible city into 2 days in Florence is impossible (trust me, I’ve tried), and choosing what to prioritize can feel like an Olympic sport. That’s where I come in. I first visited Florence as a tourist a decade ago (this guide reflects that classic experience from the Accademia to the Ponte Vecchio and a proper bistecca alla fiorentina), but I’ve since returned with Patrick and Sibby to find a more intimate side of the city. If you want to skip the lines entirely, check out my Off The Beaten Path Guide.
Svadore Insider Tip
If the thought of the 45-minute line for the David has you reaching for the Anti-Hysteria Water, you might be ready to skip the background and open the book on the "real" city. After 32 years of visiting, I’ve curated a separate Florence Off The Beaten Path Guide for those who want to find hidden frescoes in grocery stores and secret wine windows without the crowds. To those who want me to build the entire itinerary from scratch, stroller logistics and all, check out my Trip Planning Service.
Where to Stay
The Best Luxury Hotel in Florence? A Night Living Like a Medici at Palazzo Portinari Salviati
For a stay that blends history, luxury, and family-friendly comfort, Palazzo Portinari Salviati is Florence at its most enchanting. Staying here reminded me of the service standards I experienced at The Peninsula Paris or when I worked with Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Steps from the Duomo, this meticulously restored palazzo offers suites like the Beatrice Portinari Suite, where frescoed ceilings, marble floors, and Medici-era details meet modern comforts like automated shades and high-tech lighting. With attentive service, a serene spa, and a boutique bistro, it’s a rare place where you can wander centuries-old halls with a toddler in tow, sip coffee while tracing frescoes, and still feel utterly pampered.
The Svadore Secret: How I Actually Get There
You know all those people on social who claim they traveled in business class or economy for free? This is the "cheat code." I use it to find those hidden Business Class seats for 65k points (instead of $8K). Whether I’m flying Sibby to Milan or heading somewhere new with Patrick, I use Seats.aero.
Note: I only share the tools I actually use
Quick Navigation
~ Day 1 ~
Morning: Duomo
Piazza Duomo is filled with cute bars, or as Americans call them cafés, and gelaterie. But what it’s famous for is it’s famous Duomo. This Duomo, that goes by the name of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, is the largest in Europe and the third ever built.
Many put Giotto tower on their list when it comes to capturing expansive views of Florence. That’s because they don’t know that the true beauty, and thrill, comes from the Duomo’s cupola di Brunelleschi! It's a must in my opinion when spending 2 days in Florence. Rather than visit Giotto’s tower, Pat and I pre-ordered tickets to climb up to the Duomo’s cupola or dome. You have to pre-order tickets, you can’t buy them in the moment so get on it quick.
Svadore Tip
If you find the official site confusing (it often is), you can book a guided Duomo Area tour that includes the Dome climb ticket. It saves you the headache of refreshing the Italian ticketing page and ensures you actually get to see the view. For those who want the full history of the Baptistery and Cathedral without the sensory overload, this small-group Duomo complex tour is a much more intimate way to experience the heart of the city.
We recommend you do this first thing in the morning because you’ll have to wait outside in line for a bit. The sun is strong in the afternoon if you are here in the summer, so in the morning the Duomo keeps you in the shade while you wait in line.
But honestly? Once you’ve ticked the boxes, you need to see the 'interiors' where the city’s heart actually beats. Just a few blocks from the Duomo is a concept store hiding a Renaissance masterpiece that 99% of tourists walk right past. Read about it in my Artisans & Eats Florence Guide.
Done with the Duomo?
If you’ve already checked off the icons and are ready to escape the crowds, read my new guide: Florence Off The Beaten Path: A 3-Day Guide to Artisans & Eats. This is where I share the "introvert" side of the city: the binderies, the secret wine windows, and the shops I usually gatekeep.
There are a few requirements in order to take in the one-of-a-kind views from the cupola. You have to be pretty fit, not claustrophobic, and not afraid of heights. To get to the Duomo’s cupola you have to walk up 462 steps that were originally not intended for the public. They were used by the workers who had built the cupola so the spaces are tight and steps narrow and steep. Before reaching the top, you will have the opportunity to walk around a glass enclosing surrounding the inside of the dome (pictured above). This enclosing is high in the air and allows you to get a good look at Giorgio Vasari’s last judgement fresco.
Lunch: Ino
It may seem early for lunch, but trust me after having a laid back breakfast and visiting the cupola over 3 hours will go by. The wait time and hike up and down the cupola take a long time. Plus you’re exhausted from all the steps so your stomach is probably growling at you. Head over a couple of streets down to Ino in Via Georgofili 3 for Italian’s go-to lunch panini, Italian sandwiches typically composed of a cheese and meat such as prosciutto o salame. Choose from one of the many local panini and eat it inside or take it to go. Specials of the day are written on a scrap of paper and his ingredients are some of the best around. I’m talking about products like sun-dried pachino tomatoes from Sicily and prosciutto di San Daniele. While Ino is a classic famous Florentine panino, if you're interested in checking out more local eats that aren't crowded with tourists, see my full Florence off the beaten path guide for the exact locations.
Afternoon: Piazza della Signoria
If the Duomo is the heart of the city, Piazza della Signoria right next to it, is the main piazza or town square. Many don’t know it’s history, but it was an area with houses and towers owned by some of the richest factions that supported the Pope and the Holy Roman Empire, the Guelfi and Ghibellini. As with all rich factions, a feud erupted between the two and all the houses and towers were destroyed. From then on, the area was proclaimed cursed and construction was prohibited. As a result, it became a piazza, the center of political and social life rich in art, architecture and history. Dominating this piazza is Palazzo Vecchio, which now houses numerous rich and historic pieces of art, one of which was the David that is now kept at l’Accademia.
Svadore Tip
Because the history here is so dense, we're talking layers of Medici power plays and hidden passages, I highly recommend a guided tour of the Medici Palace. It turns the museum from a collection of cold statues into a living, breathing political thriller. Buy yourself a ticket and go get lost in the architecture for a couple of hours.
Afternoon: Ponte Vecchio
2 days in Florence isn't complete without a walk across Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in all of Florence, towards the Oltrarno area. As you cross, you will notice that every little house on it is occupied by either jewelers or goldsmiths. This is not because of tourism, but was actually a law instated by Ferdinand I in 1593. Originally all the houses were owned by fishermen, butchers and tanneries. The dreaded smell irritated Ferdinand I who had to walk across it everyday, so he made it law that only goldsmith and jewelers could reside there. It is also the only bridge in Florence that was not blown up during WWII by the Germans. Reason being that the Germans had a soft spot for the bridge because the 3 opened arches in the middle were created exclusively for Hitler when he visited.
Afternoon: Piazza Michelangelo
If you only have 2 days in Florence, the most stunning view is from Piazzale Michelangelo. Just across Ponte Vecchio, take a left and head up hill. The piazza was originally created in honor of Michelangelo’s masterpieces. They were supposed to be housed in the piazza. When that did not happen, the piazza was turned into a gorgeous communal area with a restaurant overlooking Florence and the Arno river for bother tourists and locals alike to stop by for an aperitivo or a meal.
Dinner: Bistecca alla Fiorentina
It is not very often that you will find “steak dinners” on Italian menus. They are a huge thing in the States, but in Italy meat is not eaten very often and if it is, the portions are much smaller. Exception is made for one of Florence’s main cuisines la Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Florentine steak. It's the one meal you have to indulge in when you have 2 days in Florence. Pat and I tried this regional delicacy at one of the many restaurants surrounding the Duomo.The traditional Bistecca is governed by a strict 5-ingredient rule. You can read the historical culinary standards on the Official Tuscan Heritage Site.
It is a slice of thick meat, usually cut at a 2-2.5 inch thickness, from the loin of a bovine. The meat is tender, tasty and very simply cooked, with only 5 ingredients used: olive oil, sage, rosemary, black pepper, salt and the steak. If you do not like rare meat, this isn’t the meat for you. Although some options might give you the option of how you want it cooked, the traditional Bistecca alla Fiorentina is rare. Prices will seem extravagant for this slab of meat, but keep in mind the meat is so big it’s a meal for TWO people so you can split the cost in half.
Are you a real foodie?
Want to take the secret of the 5-ingredient rule back home to the States, you can actually learn to cook the perfect Florentine steak with a local chef. It’s one of those "teach a man to fish" moments, except with high-end Chianina beef.
If you’re craving a simpler, wood-fired vibe instead of steak, Caffe Pizzeria del 900 is the local antidote. More on that in my Artisan & Eats Guide.
~ Day 2 ~
Morning: Accademia
The Accademia is most famously known for Michelangelo’s David. The line to get into this art gallery is probably one of the longest. If you go anytime after 10AM, expect to wait in line for 45 min to anywhere over an hour. My recommendation is to either book tickets in advance or get there before 10AM. Pat and I stayed in an AirBnb right across from the Accademia so we could see the line out our window, which gave us the chance to study its patterns. We went at 9AM and got in by 9:20AM. The ticket will cost you $25, $19 if you are a student or EU citizen. If you are looking for grand statues, this is the gallery for you. The Uffizi Gallery would be my second recommendation, but that’s richer in paintings and artwork from Paolo Uccello, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio etc. It also includes a walk through the Vasari Corridor. Given the limited amount of time we had, Pat and I just stuck to the Accademia.
Skip the line...
The line for the Uffizi is notorious. If you only have two days, don't waste three hours on the sidewalk; grab an early-morning guided entry. You’ll get in before the heat and the crowds, which is the only way to actually enjoy Botticelli without someone's elbow in your ribs.
Mapping out these "skip-the-line" windows is the first thing I do for my Full-Service Travel Planning clients. Florence is a city of patterns—if you know when the tour buses arrive, you can be somewhere else entirely.
Done with Uffizi?
If you’ve already checked off the icons and are ready to escape the crowds, read my new guide: Florence Off The Beaten Path: A 3-Day Guide to Artisans & Eats. This is where I share the "introvert" side of the city: the binderies, the secret wine windows, and the shops I usually gatekeep.
Morning: Markets at San Lorenzo/Mercato Centrale
For a taste of the Italian markets (no pun intended), head to San Lorenzo Markets. They are hard to miss in the San Lorenzo neighborhood. The outdoor markets cover the streets selling fine leather goods, pottery, clothing, souvenirs and more. All these markets lead to the heart of the market, where all the juicy stuff, aka the food, lives. The building that houses all the food is called Mercato Centrale. Stop there for a quick bite to eat and enjoy the diverse array of foods Italy has to offer.
While the San Lorenzo market is a classic, for heirloom quality like Casentino wool or hand-marbled paper, you need to head to the workshops in the Oltrarno. See my full Florence Artisan Guide for the exact locations.
Unfortunately, I have to say that Florence isn't particularly stroller friendly between the super narrow sidewalks and hoards of tourists. However, if you come equipped, you can make it a bit easier on yourself. I’ve detailed my exact gear and logistics in my guide to traveling with a newborn. If you want the 'easy button,' my Trip Planning Service handles the stroller-friendly routing for you.
Afternoon: Basilica di Santa Croce
Although the Duomo, as in all Italian cities, gets all the praise for it’s grandiosity and beauty, not many people know that Basilica di Santa Croce is Florence’s most important church. It’s where some of the most important icons in Florence have been buried from Michelangelo to Macchiavelli and Galileo Galilei. It is the largest Franciscan church in the entire world. Aside from some of Florence’s more notable icons, you’ll also find the tombs of some of the most influential people that created our world today. You’d never expect to find their tombs in Sicily! These notables include the inventor of the radio and opera sensation Gioachino Rossini.
Afternoon: Gelato!
Time for a break! Head to the Ponte Veccchio to Gelateria Edoardo for a taste of true organically-made Italian gelato. Free of everything from additives, preservatives, coloring, and GMOs, it is in my opinion some of the best produced gelato in all of Florence. Everything is made like it once was back in the day. They even make your ice cream cone right in front of you to show you that it’s handmade. The ice cream is held in the once old carapina ice cream boxes and they use an old vintage cash register. For a true taste of how Italian gelato once used to be made, head here.
Afternoon: Pitti Palace, Boboli & Bardini Gardens
To properly conclude your 2 days in Florence you MUST stop by Palazzo Pitti. The ticket is cheap and will only cost you $10. Built by the Pitti family in the 15th century, its floors are now home to many museums rich in clothing, porcelain, artwork and other treasures. The Palazzo takes about 2 hours to see and once that’s done you’re going to want to take a break.
Don't get lost
To navigate the massive Palatina Gallery and the gardens without getting lost in the 15th-century sprawl, this small group tour (max 12 people) is perfect. It keeps the experience personal, which is exactly how the Pitti family would have wanted it.
Boboli Garden are just the place to do that, but in order to visit them, that will be an additional $8 (and it’s totally worth it). If you’re looking for art, history and a break, get lost in the romantic holm oak lined paths, secret grottos and public fountains, and find a spot under a tree to lay down and take a quick nap or a read a book among the locals.
If you have time, I recommend you also visit Florence’s other renowned Garden right next to the Boboli gardens—Bardini. The entrance is only $9 and it’s a true GARDEN, more than Bardini which is more of a park space for locals and tourists to lounge around and bask in it’s beauty. Rich in hydrangeas, bourbon roses, irises, azeleas witherns, vibernums, camellias, and a collection of citrus fruits, it is a true sight for sore eyes in Spring and Summer. The highlight of the garden is the baroque staircase that leads to a view of the city below.
If the Pitti Palace feels too 'museum-heavy,' escape to the nearby backstreets for a behind-the-scenes look at Florence’s living artisans.
Dinner: Trattoria Cent'ori
Pat and I always have at least one epically memorable dinner in every location, and in Florence, that dinner was at Trattoria Cent’ori. A trattoria or osteria, or tavern, where you’ll see locals chit chatting over a glass of house wine and traditional Tuscan cuisine. Pat and I went for their gnocchi and a chocolate pear dessert. If you’re looking for a local experience, look no further and head here after your visit to Palazzo Pitti and the Bardini gardens for an amazing end to your 2 days in Florence.
You've Seen the Cover, Now Open the Book...
Florence is a city that hides its best secrets behind heavy wooden doors. If you’ve finished the 'Classic' circuit and you’re ready to dive into the world of 14th-century wool, hand-marbled paper, and the secret wine windows Patrick and I vetted on our last trip (stroller in tow!), head over to my 3-Day Florence Off The Beaten Path Itinerary.
Don’t get lost in the backstreets: I’ve pinned every hidden workshop and non-touristy eatery on my Florence My Maps Guide, it’s the ultimate key to the 'Introvert City.'
1 comment
3/2026: Trattoria Cent’ori is permanently closed :/