The ideal Connecticut experience? Spend an evening sipping wine on a private island in Westport, CT and experience the process of oyster farming directly at the source.
For years, Connecticut has been a “secret” haven for fresh seafood and quieter beaches that only the locals frequent, often overlooked by its neighbors the Hamptons, Montauk, and Jersey Shore. But as COVID has people migrating outside of New York and considering Connecticut as their new home, many are wondering what some of these local, more intimate Connecticut experiences are. So that’s what I set out to do, uncover what some of the lesser known, more unique things to do in Connecticut. That’s how Hummock Island just steps from my hometown of Greenwich in the heart of Westport, CT, came across my radar.
While many visitors like to enjoy oysters from Connecticut’s finest restaurants, few are likely aware how much oysters benefit waters. When local Jeff Northrop became aware that his father owned a small oyster shack in the middle of a pond in Westport that was bestowed upon them by a King’s grant back in the 1600s, he immediately saw the potential in sustainable aquaculture farming.
“A lot of people believe that in order for a business to be profitable it can’t be sustainable, or vice versa, but that’s not true. There are opportunities where you can do both, they are just not that common.”
How to get to Hummock Island?
Jeff hosts public and private oyster tours and events on Hummock Island. I decided to join a special event and learn more about the business. The tour begins at Sherwood Millpond where Jeff pulls up in a simple yet classy boat. We all hop on and take a 10 minute journey across the pond. I see a small cottage begin to take shape. The island is small with just a porch and small platform where people can enjoy a drink.
What to do on Hummock Island: Drinks and explore the property
He drops us off and we begin to wander about the small island. A set of gift bags where lined up on the steps to the cottage courtesy of Better Natured. One of the hostesses pulled out a bottle from the wine bucket full of rosé and the festivities began. I took a glass and sat down one of the many lined up white New England style lawn chairs facing the pond. Hummock Island is one of the only places that actually owns land under water making it a very unique Connecticut experience. Jeff owns about 83 acres in addition to another plot in deeper water farther out from the pond.
A brief history of the cottage and how it got here…
The story as to how this cottage got onto this island is quite interesting. In the early 1700s when the influenza pandemic began, people believed that oyster and clam broth was the ultimate cure. Looters began to try and steal oysters from Sherwood Millpond, so they set up an oyster guard shack in the middle of it to ward away looters: say hello to Hummock Island. An oyster guard lived alone in solitude on the island for a period of time, protecting the oysters with just a gun in hand. Fast forward a few years and the cottage fell out of use until Jeff Northrop revived it creating a unique Connecticut experience.
When it comes to private events, Jeff hires the best chef’s from local restaurants
As the rosé kept coming, Jeff gave all the guests time to wander about the property, get acquainted with one another, and let their curiosity lead them. Jeff had hired Chef and Owner Nick Martschenko of South End in New Canaan to take care of the appetizers for the evening. Nick who graduated from CIA spent years at the renowned Gramercy Tavern in New York and was even on Master Chef! Needless to say, Jeff brought the best of the best talent on for this special occasion to showcase the best Connecticut experience.
Before tasting the oysters raw, we got a taste of what they would be like cooked. Nick set out to make an oyster pan roast with ham, cream, and various spices. He does that to mellow out the flavor of the oysters and introduce a bit of a spicy kick or surprise at the end. Trust me, I did not expect that kick to hit me at the end!
The educational component of sustainable oyster farming–trust me, it’s very interesting
Now that we had tasted some of the oysters and gotten acquainted with the island, it was time for Jeff to talk about what makes Hummock Island such a unique Connecticut experience. He gathered us around the porch and began to tell the story. Sherwood Millpond can grow up to 60 million oysters a year. Unlike other oysters, because of the high velocity of water flow in the pond, the oysters at Hummock Island take up to 18 months to grow instead of 4 years.
Jeff’s obsession with aquaculture led him to explore growing bivalves in different sustainable ways. He goes onto explain how oysters actually help the environment. They feed on algae in water, therefore the feed cost is zero and they clean water from toxins and agricultural runoff in their shells (which is later removed when they are harvested) making it a more livable environment for the fish within their ecosystem. These are just some of the many positive externalities to oyster farming. The biggest one which is why Jeff got into this business in the first place is the overall opportunity that shellfish agriculture can be for the world. It’s a solution to food security issues with a negative carbon footprint. When done correctly, it can really make a difference and all you need is water and algae.
Aside from oyster tours, Jeff sells a ton of his oysters and is looking to scale the business into a modern farm that can be deployed in any body of water. He wants to continue his mission to do good for the environment and people in a sustainable way.
Oyster shucking lessons and eating live ghost crabs
Jeff’s passion for his work can really be felt when he talks about his business, but even more so when he actually handles the oysters. We moved onto the platform where he proceeded to show us how to shuck oysters. It’s evident that what Jeff loves most about his job is being out here, on the water regularly, and being in harmony with nature in this tranquil setting. He goes onto explain why oyster farming is so special and important to him, “There’s something about growing them, touching them, handling them and the tactile element and feeling of product that is magical.”
Eating live ghost crabs
I had tasted the oysters in creamy sauce, but I wanted to taste them fresh to truly know the difference. The oysters at Hummock Island are actually a lot milder and less salty in flavor than your everyday regular oyster. They are also a lot smoother and less chewier. If you’re not that into fish or strong salt water flavors, then the Hummock Island oysters are for you.
As the night came to a close we enjoyed the sunset and packed up our things before saying goodbye to Hummock Island. Jeff has what he calls an “obsession” with oysters, but I would call it a “strong passion.” On his tours he explains how oyster farming is sustainable when done right and how it can solve many food insecurities in the world. Of course, it’s more than just a crash course in oyster farming, the entire island experience comes with bottles of wine and oyster shucking lessons while watching the sunset. It’s educational, yet fun and classy, and perfect for all ages. From now on, when I think of a unique Connecticut experience, Hummock Island will always come to mind.
Don’t forget, get 15% off your next tour or event at Hummock Island with my unique code: SVIP15
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1 comment
the owners of hummock Island oyster tours are scammers and thieves. i booked a private event for this past weekend, Saturday October 3rd for 12 people and they just left us standing at the boat launch with no explanation. they would not return texts or calls. and now they will not refund my money. and this was my second time hosting an event with them! read the reviews! I am not the first they have done this to.