passage grand cerf 9 Secret Passages in Paris and Why They're Unique

A Map of 9 Covered Passages in Paris & Why They’re Unique

You’ve seen la Tour Eiffel, le Louvre, and Notre Dame. Now what’s next? Stroll through 9 secret passages in Paris.
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You’ve seen la Tour Eiffel, le Louvre, and Notre Dame. Now what’s next? Stroll through 9 secret covered passages in Paris.

After seeing all the tourist staples, I wanted to travel deeper. I decided to make my way through the labyrinth of secret covered passages in Paris, also known as passages couverts or arcades. Over 150 passages were built in Paris in the 18th century as a meeting place for the wealthy to shop, eat, and socialize during a cold winter or rainy day. Today, approximately only 20 remain. Each is distinct in it’s own way. Some have the oldest umbrella repair shop, others have the oldest bookstores, the first-ever Jean Gaultier store, and oldest stamp and postcard shops. Here are my 9 favorite hidden covered passages in Paris and what makes each so unique.

1. Passage du Grand Cerf

Location: 2nd Arrondissement; Châtelet
Opened in: 1825
Hours: Monday to Saturday 8:30AM – 8:30PM; Closed on Sundays

Le Passage du Grand Cerf is one of the largest covered passages in Paris. Cerf means ‘stag’s head,’ and if you pay close enough attention to the entrance you will see a statue of a stag’s head hanging above the arch. What makes this passage so special is it’s skylight ceiling that is embellished with various decor throughout the year. I was here in spring, so colorful umbrellas hung from the ceiling. During Christmas, Christmas lights and ornaments hang from above, and at other times flowers cascade down onto the boutiques. Passage du Grand Cerf specializes in handmade jewellery, furniture, and fashion (mainly vintage). Keep an eye out for the hilarious restaurant names Pas Sage, a play on words between the words passage, or arcade, and pas sage, which in French means not wise.

2. Passage Verdeau

Location: 3rd Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: 1846
Hours: Monday to Friday: 7:30AM – 9PM. Weekend: 7:30AM – 8:30PM

Passage Verdeau is named after it’s creator, Monsieur Verdeau, who invented the idea of renting linen to hotels (strange right?!). This covered passage specializes in antique shops and dealers that sell items such as vintage and rare books, stamp collections, vintage postcard vendors, camera collectors, and more. A vintage postcard or book is the perfect take away Paris from a trip in Paris. It’s wooden storefronts and cafés make for a great rainy day hideaway.



3. Passage Jouffroy

Location: 9th Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: 1836
Hours: 7AM – 9:30PM

If you’re looking for variety than Passage Jouffroy is the arcade for you. It is also considered one of the busiest passages in Paris. This covered passage was one of the first hidden passages in Paris to have heated floors—très chic! The covered passage houses the famous Grévin wax museum, which is the oldest of its kind in Europe, the Salon des Miroirs (a Saturday evening club and former brewery,) a hotel called Chopin, the oldest bookstores in Paris, cane shops and toy shops, tea rooms, gourmet candy stores, and the list goes on.

4. Passage de l’Ancre

Location: 3rd Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: approx. 1640!
Hours: Monday – Saturday 10AM – 7:30PM; Closed on Sunday

Passage de l’Ancre is not technically a shopping arcade, it’s a private lane. It’s a slice of countryside hidden behind a beautiful crooked cyan blue door. This passage is not lined with glass storefronts and antique shops. In fact, this covered passage only has one shop. Follow the cobblestone alley to the middle of this green oasis and you’ll find the oldest umbrella repair shop in Paris. Passage de l’Ancre or ‘anchor street’ got its name from an anchor-shaped sign that on old hostel of the street used to have hanging outside their door.

5. Passage des Panoramas

Location: 2nd Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: 1799
Hours: 6AM – Midnight

Passages des Panorama was the first covered passage or arcade ever built in Paris, which is why it’s considered a historical monument. Passages des Panorama is one of my favorite covered passages in Paris and it is also the first one I explored. Similar to Passage Verdeau, here you will find vintage postcard stalls, stamp, coin, and autograph collectors line the wooden glass vitrines. What makes Passages des Panoramas special is the Théâtre des Variétés at the entrance of the passage. Show are still held here and the stage has seem some renowned creators and artists such as Alexandre Dumas, Marcel Pagnol and Offenbach.



6. Galerie Vivienne

Location: 2nd Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: 1823
Hours: 8:30AM – 8:30PM; Closed on Sunday

If you want to know where all the wealthy bourgeois French people hung out in 1823 (and still today!), stop by Galerie Vivienne. It’s by far the most elevated and sumptuous of all the covered passages in Paris. This passage has also been registered as a historic monument. It’s a mix of delicate mosaics adorning the floors, grand statues line each corner, ready-to-wear boutiques, high-end tea rooms, wine cellars, and more fill this arcade. Needless to say, you won’t be leaving this passage with a cheap souvenir. In fact, Jean Paul Gaultier opened his first boutique here and it still remains his flagship store to this day.

7. Cour du Commerce Saint-André

Location: 6th Arrondissement; Sorbonne or Quartier Latin
Opened in: 1776
Hours: 8:30AM – 8:30PM; Closed on Sunday

Cour du Commerce Saint-André is one of the few streets that has retained its original cobblestone streets. It is very reminiscent of Old Paris before Haussman’s work. The street includes small boutiques and one of the oldest restaurant in Paris, Le Procope. Look out for Napoleon Bonaparte’s hat on display in a glass case at the entrance of l’Ancienne Comédie!

8. Passage Brady

Location: 10th Arrondissement; Quartier de l’Opéra
Opened in: 1828
Hours: Monday – Saturday 9.30AM – 11.30PM; Sunday 6PM – 11.30PM

If you want to feel like you’re in a souk, visit Passage Brady, also known as “Little India.” You’ll smell the spices from around the corner. Passage Brady has a number of Indian, Pakistani, Mauritian and Reunion restaurants to satiate your spicy cravings.



9. Galerie Veró-Dodat

Location: 1st Arrondissement; Louvre
Opened in: 1826
Hours: Monday – Saturday 7AM – 10PM; Closed on Sunday

Galerie Veró-Dodat is recognizable because of it’s black an white marble floor checkerboard tiles. The moulded ceilings and glass enclosed shops house antique stores and most notable, the Christian Louboutin store. This covered passage is also a Parisian historical landmark and was the first passage to have gas lighting. Located steps from the Louvre and Palais Royal it is in a jewel of a location.

>> Next: Ground Control: Unique Experience in Gare de Lyon, Paris

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