If Stresa is the flashy, overdressed older sister wearing too much perfume and courting every tour bus in Northern Italy, Pallanza is the sophisticated sibling who stayed home, poured a glass of Erbaluce, and watched the sunset in peace. Growing up spending my summers on Lake Maggiore, I’ve always found the Verbania side, specifically the duo of Pallanza and Suna, to be the quieter soul of the lake. It’s where the architecture breathes, and where you aren’t bombarded with kitschy Italian souvenirs.
The Gentlemen Season 2: Life Imitates Art
There is a magic here that Hollywood eventually sniffed out. I’ve always known Pallanza was film-worthy, I chose the Grand Hotel Majestic as the backdrop for my own wedding. It’s a place of Belle Époque dreams, sprawling lakeside gardens, and a staircase made for a dramatic entrance.
Apparently, Guy Ritchie agreed.
While Patrick and I were back at the Majestic celebrating our second wedding anniversary, we walked right into a closed set. Fans of the Netlix TV Show, The Gentlemen, will recognize the hotel as a primary filming location for Season 2. In a "life imitates art" moment, the production used my very own wedding venue for Theo James’ wedding scene in The Gentlemen Season 2. Maybe a location scout from the show came across my wedding article or social video and was inspired? Who knows...but the similarity is quite uncanny a mere 2 years after my wedding. See for yourself:
@svadore The Gentlemen are stealing my wedding aesthetic?? I walked down the aisle here. Theo James is walking on set for Season 2. Coincidence? I think not. For the full story (yes, even the bird poop + boat party): Svadore.com - link in bio. #TheoJames #LakeMaggiore #DestinationWedding #ItalyWedding #GrandHotelMajestic #TheGentlemenNetflix #netflix #thegentlemen #season2 #s2 #verbania #lagomaggiore #onset #filming #bts ♬ original sound - Sveva Marcangeli | Svadore
Running into the whole cast at the hotel while we toasted to our own two years of marriage was peak Svadore.
~ The Garden Route ~
Villa Taranto Botanical Gardens & Abandoned Villas
You can't mention Pallanza without Villa Taranto. It's 16-acres of imaculate bliss. It was the brainchild of Captain Neil McEacharn, a Scottish archer who bought the property in 1931 because it reminded him of his family's estate in Scotland (but with better weather). Fun Fact: The Captain was so dedicated to his plants that he’s actually buried in a chapel on the grounds.
Walking through the "Valletta" is like a curated jungle. You’ll find 20,000 plant varieties and lily pads, the Victoria Amazonica are the size of dinner tables. They can hold the weight of a small child, though I didn't dare test that with Sibby. If you’re here in the spring, the Tulip Week features over 80,000 bulbs in a dizzying kaleidoscope of color.
While you can wander the gardens on your own, the history and the rare botany here are so dense that it's easy to miss the "hidden" species. I highly recommend booking a Private Walking Tour of Villa Taranto. Having a local guide explain the nuances of the cactus houses and the water lilies makes the experience feel much more intimate and personalized.
The "Ghost" Villas: A Study in Cinematic Decay
Once you've finished touring Villa Taranto, you will pop out on the otherside and can walk your way towards the main village of Pallanza. The walk here is easy and scenic. There's a wide pedestrian and cycling path on the lake that takes you passed abandoned villas. It's scenic, quiet, shaded, and worth the walk. This stretch is a graveyard of 19th-century grandeur.
Here you'll see rusted Art Nouveau gates, crumbling boat houses with their rotting wood docks, and stone staircases that lead directly into the water, now covered in neon-green moss. These were once the summer "cottages" of the Milanese elite, now standing in a state of beautiful, haunting decay (although some are occasionally rented for events and weddings). It’s a side of Lake Maggiore that many forget to appreciate.
Fun Fact
The grand villas you see along that walk weren't just vacation homes; they were trophies. Most were built by the industrial elite from Milan and Switzerland who wanted to out-glam each other. If you see a particularly overgrown gate, it’s likely because the heirs are stuck in a 50-year-long Italian legal battle over who gets the boathouse. This area is the original "Gold Coast" of Lake Maggiore. Before Stresa became the tourist hub, Pallanza was the center of high society.
~ From the Water ~
Isolino di San Giovanni: The Forbidden Jewel
As you walk the lungolago, your eyes will inevitably pull toward a tiny, lush green jewel just 30 yards offshore. This is the Isolino di San Giovanni, and it is the definition of "exclusive."
Owned by the Borromeo family (the de facto royals of the lake), it is strictly private. It was the long-time summer retreat of the legendary conductor Arturo Toscanini, who found the silence of the island necessary for his craft. In 2015, the world’s elite descended here for the religious wedding ceremony of Beatrice Borromeo and Pierre Casiraghi (son of Princess Caroline of Monaco).
For my own wedding at the Grand Hotel Majestic, the Isolino was our constant, shimmering guest. During our aperitivo, our private ferry boat picked us up and cruised within ten feet of the island’s stone walls—close enough to see the ancient gargoyles and smell the private jasmine gardens that no one else gets to touch.
Paddle the Perimeter: SUP
The absolute best way to see the Isolino is on a SUP (Stand-Up Paddleboard). You can rent one from the Grand Hotel Majestic (yes, non-guests are welcome) right before walking into Pallanza main town.
After you’ve circled the island, paddle toward Suna. This stretch is a graveyard of 19th-century grandeur. You’ll glide past abandoned villas reclaimed by the lake, look for rusted Art Nouveau gates, crumbling boat houses, and moss-covered stone staircases leading directly into the emerald water. It’s a side of Lake Maggiore that feels like a beautiful, haunting secret.
Borromean Island Ferries
Pallanza is one of the few places where you can skip the Stresa crowds and hop on a ferry directly to the Borromean Islands. Ferries depart from the main pier frequently, taking you to Isola Madre, Isola dei Pescatori, and Isola Bella. It's the "local's secret" for starting an island-hopping day without the long lines.
Local Pro-Tip: Seeing all three islands in one day is fairly challenging given the amount there is to see and coordinating the boat schedules. For a truly seamless day, book The Three Borromean Islands Private Tour. You’ll have a private boat and a guide who brings the history of the Borromeo family to life.
~ Exploring the Village ~
Church of San Leonardo
A couple of hundred meters down from Grand Hotel Majestic, is the first stop in the village of Pallanza: the Church of San Leonardo. While I said my vows at the Majestic, Guy Ritchie chose this exact spot to film the wedding scene for Theo James in The Gentlemen Season 2. Whether you're a fan of the show or just appreciate the dramatic frescoes, it’s a cinematic must-visit.
Villa Giulia: Aperitivos & Events
This 19th-century villa is the cultural heart of the town. Throughout September, they host "Musica in Villa," specifically the "Aperitivo in Musica" on the terrace. Imagine sipping a spritz while a Spanish guitar player or a jazz trio performs against the backdrop of the Borromean Gulf. It’s also where many civil ceremonies happen before couples head to the Majestic for the reception, a move the Gentlemen crew likely mimicked.
Via Ruga: The Heart of Pallanza
Duck into the old town to find the Museo del Paesaggio. Mariangela, the General Manager of the Grand Hotel Majestic, insists this is the only way to understand the area's history.
History Fact
While you’re walking from the lake into the village, keep an eye out for the name Paolo Troubetzkoy. He was a world-famous sculptor (and a Russian prince!) who lived and worked in Pallanza. He was one of the first famous vegetarians in Italy and used to host wild, bohemian parties. The Museo del Paesaggio on Via Ruga holds the world's largest collection of his plaster works. He’s the reason Pallanza has an "artistic" soul compared to the "commercial" soul of Stresa.
Afterward, find the library in Via Ruga, it’s quietly one of the most important libraries in the world for antique books. Located where the historic Café Bottinelli once stood, Librarsi Spalavera is a 150-square-meter "nest" guarded by 10,000 volumes, including rare antiques. It's rich in burgundy velvet armchairs, restored furniture from the old café, and exposed brick vaults. Name and location is in my Lago Maggiore Google Maps.
Fun Fact
If you head into the cellar, you can still see the original oven once used to bake Pallanza’s famous amaretti. It’s a place that breathes history.
Forget the plastic magnets. Head to C'Artificio, a shop specializing in local vintage. You must buy the book The Light (or Parentesi Luminosa). It captures the literal and metaphorical glow of the lake, a must-read for anyone trying to find a personal connection here.
Located at the top of the street, this cafe and bakery is a local institution. You must get the Margheritine di Stresa, delicate butter cookies created for Queen Margherita in 1857. Legend says they were so good she made the baker the official royal supplier. Name and location can be found in my Lago Maggiore Google Maps!
If you're craving a gelato instead, Gelato degli Altri Tempi is known as the best gelato in the area (there is one in Intra too). Look for their award-winning Lemon-Basil or any scoop made with Miele del Vco (local mountain honey). It’s fresh, natural, and far from the crowds.
~ Walking from Pallanza to Suna ~
You cannot talk about Pallanza without mentioning Suna. They are tethered by a single, gorgeous lakeside road that makes for the perfect 15-minute walk. While Pallanza is grand and historical, Suna is where the energy is.
History Fact
Even though 'sun' is 'sole' in Italian, Suna is dialect-coded for being the ultimate sun-trap. It’s the last place on the lake to lose the light, and the local granite walls stay warm enough to act as a natural heater for your sunset aperitivo.
- ASD Tennis ALTIORA: Play tennis right on the water, it’s peak Italian glamour. Fun Fact: This club is legendary in the area for its position; it’s one of the few places in the world where you can work on your backhand while literally feeling the lake breeze.
- Suna Beach: A pool and lounge bar for those who want to see and be seen. It divides the "sandy" part of the beach and is the place to spend an afternoon if you want a pool day with a view of the Isolino San Giovanni.
~ Where to Eat: From Lakefront Chic to Rustic Soul ~
Food in Suna and Pallanza ranges from high-brow bistros to "no-frills" local haunts.
- Grand Hotel Majestic (Dinner): For a "super fancy" experience, dinner at the Majestic is mandatory. Sitting outside under the 18th-century Portico on the lake is transcendent. The food is high-level gourmet, and the atmosphere, with the lights twinkling on the water, is as delicious as the meal itself.
- The Lakefront Fish Spot: My favorite spot is lakefront dining at its most literal (location details in my Lago Maggiore Google Map!). It is on the water; if the water level is high, you could practically throw your napkin into the lake. The mood is incredibly cool. Tip: Come early; it gets packed with locals.
- Hostaria Dam a Traa: Go for the tapulone (slow-cooked donkey). It's a traditional Verbanese dish.
- Osteria degli Specchi: A welcoming spot for Piedmontese risottos and Ossola cheeses. Highly popular with locals, so reservations are a must.
- Caffè delle Rose Bistrot: A historic spot with a romantic, retro vibe. You are here for the torta di rose and a sunset apericena.
- Ristorante Il Portale: Located by the ancient city gate, it’s the reliable choice for wood-fired pizza and a casual vibe.
Local Tip: If you're here on a Saturday, the market in Intra is a scene, but for a "no-frills" local lunch, hit Piada Cafe between Pallanza and Intra. t's where Pat and I go for a quick piadina when we want something authentic and fast. You will find ONLY locals here. It's roadside, cheap, and a total staple.
~ The Nightlife Extension ~
- The Secret Cocktail Haven: The best spot for drinks as the sun dips is a super hip "locals-only" haunt in Suna (I’ve pinned the exact spot on my map). It’s famous for its creative cocktails and being the heart of Suna's social scene.
- Notte Bianche: In the summer, keep an eye out for what we call the "White Nights." The streets stay open late, music fills the piazzas, and the village turns into a sophisticated block party. It basically means no one sleeps. It's a super fun event that changes location every week throughout the summer, just make sure you don't book your accommodations next to one of them!
~ Where to Stay: Grand Hotel Majestic ~
In case I didn't make it clear enough throughout this entire article, the BEST place to stay in Pallanza, and in my opinion, in all of Lago Maggiore, is at Grand Hotel Majestic. It’s old-world luxury that doesn't feel stuffy. Even if you aren't staying, the terrace is mandatory for a sunset drink looking out over the Borromean Gulf.
Want to experience Lake Maggiore like a local without the headache of logistics? I offer Travel Consultations and Full-Service Planning to help you find those "hidden-in-plain-sight" moments that make a trip personal.
>> Next: My Bookmarked Spots in Arona, Lago Maggiore: Eat, Shop, Explore
