A Guide to Isola dei Pescatori, Lago Maggiore

Don’t let Isola Bella and Madre be the only two Borromean islands you see when on Lake Maggiore. Visit Isola dei Pescatori for a glimpse at a true fishermen’s island.

Lake Maggiore‘s main attraction, in addition to the luxurious town of Stresa, are the Borromean Islands in the middle of the lake. The Borromean Islands consist of three islands–Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Isola dei Pescatori–and 2 islets. Following an afternoon in Stresa, my mother and I decided to visit Isola dei Pescatori, or Fishermen’s Island, the only inhabited island of the four with a small fishing village full of cafes, stores, and quaint vibes. It’s other name is Isola Superiore, or the Superior island due to it’s more Northern position relative to the other islands.

How to get there

To get to Isola dei Pescatori we had to two options from Stresa. Either take the public ferry that comes about twice an hour or take a small boat charter that costs about the same price. We personally preferred the small boat charter, it was more quintessentially Lake Maggiore and had a hint of romanticism to it. The small charter boats only seat 8 and leave about every 15 minutes just a few feet from the ferry stop in Stresa. You can also reach Isola dei Pescatori from Arona, Verbania, and Baveno if need be, but Stresa is the easier, quicker, and more direct route.

On the way there you whiz by Stresa followed by the more famous Isola Bella. You’ll pass by Isola Bella’s palace where you can admire the gardens, architecture, and more from the lake.

About Isola dei Pescatori

Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the islands. It only has 2 main roads and has a population of about 25 as of 2018. It’s inhabited by these 25 locals all year round, but the numbers increase in the summer when tourists rent out holiday rentals on the island. The island used to keep itself afloat on its fishing occupation, but has since shifted to tourism as its main economy. Fishing still exists among the locals, but it isn’t the primary source of income.

Main Streets

When you get off at Isola dei Pescatori, it’s hard to get lost. I would start off by walking down one of the two main streets in the center of the island. Following the narrow cobblestone lanes from one end of the island to the other and admire the two story houses and long balconies that used to be used for drying fish. You’ll notice that all of the houses main entrances are located on the inside on the island, not outside facing the lake. This was done purposefully. The island is frequently flooded and the water levels of the lake rise, so the houses were built to survive yearly floods.

Shopping on Isola dei Pescatori

A lot of the souvenirs you’ll find on Isola Pescatori are mainly local delicacies. For example, confetti, which in America you associate with pieces of paper that are thrown during weddings are actually hard almond candies traditionally used for important celebrations in Italy such as weddings, baptisms, etc. But rather than throw the confetti (that would hurt!), we eat the confetti and throw the wrapper they’re in for celebrations. These are also called…”Sassi Dolci” or sweet rocks since many mistake confetti for rocks. You can also purchase a selection of local olive oil vintage cans or local liquors like Ginepy and various Grappas.

Attractions

A few of the attractions of note are the old elementary school now turned into a small fishing museum once inhabited by musician Ugo Ara and the Church of San Vittore. The Church of San Vittore is probably the first thing to catch your eye as you approach the island with its sharp campanile breaking through the clutter of fishing houses. The apse of the church and the window date back to the 11th century and inside you can find a 16th century fresco which include call outs to the apostles Peter and Andrew, the patron saints of fishermen.

The fishing museum is worth a quick stop. It’s super small and allows you to see what living like these old fishing houses used to be like. Not only, but it tells you a history of what used to be Lago Maggiore’s main source of income – fish. It teaches you everything there is to know about the types of fish in the lake to how deep the lake is. I never thought about this until my father-in-law brought it up, but Lake Maggiore is 1,220 feet or 372 meters deep at it’s maximum. Now I’ve never put anything thought into this…but for context, the Long Island Sound where I live in the US is 300 feet or 100 meters deep. So yikes! Don’t give that any thought when you’re renting a boat and touring the islands or anything!

Outskirts

There are plenty of places to stop by and eat some freshly caught fish for lunch, shop a few local artisan crafts, and grab a gelato or caffe. Once you’ve finished exploring the inside streets, do a walk of the perimeter. Fishing boats line the outskirts of the island and there are benches throughout for locals and tourists to sit down and take in the view of Stresa and the neighboring islands while chowing down on some gelato. Pay attention to the details on the benches, you’ll find painted artwork on them that brings to life the history of Isola dei Pescatori.

Hotels on Isola dei Pescatori

If you’re looking to spend the night on Isola dei Pescatori, that’s possible as well. There are two Isola dei Pescatori hotels and a few holiday rentals available throughout the year. It’s the perfect place to enjoy peace and solitude from the bustling towns of Stresa, Pallanza, Intra, and Arona and on the highly coveted Borromean Islands. Enjoy a fancy candle lit dinner at night and retreat back to your hotel on Isola dei Pescatori. You’ll feel like you are one of the only 25 people on the island!

Can you eat dinner at a restaurant on Isola dei Pescatori? And how?

If you’re looking to enjoy a late dinner at a restaurant on a Borromean Island, Isola Pescatori is really the only one that comfortably allows you to do so. Just note that if you want to eat dinner on Isola Pescatori, you’ll have to call the restaurant beforehand. The only way to get there is through the restaurant itself since no public boats run after 7PM. Every restaurant has a private motorboat that will take guests to and from their destinations free of charge. It takes a bit of planning ahead of time, but it’s worth it.

For our wedding rehearsal dinner, we ate at the Isola dei Pescatori restaurant Casa Bella pictured above. They can pick you up either from Stresa for 10 euro per person, or from anywhere you want on Lago Maggiore for 15 euro. We got picked up from my wedding venue at Grand Hotel Majestic. The ride to the restaurant was incredible and the restaurants meals were delicious and affordable. No wonder celebs like designer Sonia Rykiel and the former Prime Minister of Italy, Sergio Berlusconi have eaten here.

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