The water shimmered like glass, untouched by the hum of engines or the froth of passing wakes. Lago di Mergozzo stretched out before me, quiet and self-possessed, as if it had always meant to be on its own. Once upon a time, it wasn’t—this lake was part of nearby Lago Maggiore, until time, silt, and shifting earth carved it away, leaving Mergozzo as its own secluded world. No motorboats disturb its waters, fishing is carefully protected, and as a result it’s become one of the cleanest lakes in all of Italy. For me, it feels like a homecoming. My parents are Italian. My mother is from nearby Lago Maggiore, so this region is stitched into my family’s summers. But it wasn’t until later in life that I started noticing the quiet beauty of Lago di Mergozzo—its hidden paths, its stubborn little traditions, and its secret sense of calm. Here’s everything I’ve learned to love doing at Lago di Mergozzo—the things that turn this “tiny lake” into a place you’ll remember long after you’ve dried off from your swim.
1. Swim, Paddle, or Kayak in Lago di Mergozzo
I’ll start with the obvious: you can’t be at one of the cleanest lakes in Italy and not get in the water. I’ve swum, kayaked, and paddleboarded here, and some of my braver friends have even crossed the lake on their own—something that’s only possible because no motorboats are allowed to churn up the surface. On one side of the water runs the road, and on the other, Il Sentiero Azzurro winds through the trees. I love that contrast: the choice between lazy lakeside lounging and active exploring.
2. Wander the Village of Mergozzo
At the very tip of the lake sits the village of Mergozzo, tiny but timeless. Narrow cobblestone lanes twist between stone houses with flower boxes spilling over their wooden shutters. The heart of it all is the little piazza, where locals sip espresso under the shade of old plane trees and the clink of coffee cups carries across the square. Children chase each other along the waterfront, gelato dripping down their hands, while the lake quietly laps against the stone embankment. There isn’t much to “do” here in the typical sense...and that’s exactly the point. Mergozzo is a place to slow down, wander, and let its rhythm fold you in.
3. Visit La Cava di Candoglia
Hidden in the tiny hamlet of Candoglia lies a quarry with a legacy far bigger than its size. This is La Cava di Candoglia, the source of the rare white-and-pink marble that has built and restored Milan’s Duomo since the 14th century. For centuries, enormous blocks were marked with the initials “A.U.F.”—Ad Usum Fabricae, or “for use of the Cathedral”—and floated down canals all the way to Milan, exempt from tolls as they traveled. Today, the quarry still belongs to the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo, and you can join a guided tour to see firsthand how this precious marble is extracted.
4. Eat Fugascina
Listen, you can admire Lago di Mergozzo all day, but if you skip Fugascina, you’re doing it wrong. This tiny spot is legendary for its namesake pastry—a golden, pillowy hug of dough, sometimes stuffed with local cheese, sometimes sweet, always irresistible. Locals pop in for their espresso fix, tourists stumble in wide-eyed, and everyone leaves with a crumb or three tucked away in a napkin. Pair it with a cappuccino or a glass of the region’s wine, and suddenly the lake is nice, but Fugascina is unforgettable. Yes, you can eat it for breakfast, lunch, or an emergency snack.
5. Hike Il Sentiero Azzurro
On the left-hand side of Lago di Mergozzo, a little path slips into the woods: Il Sentiero Azzurro. It connects Montorfano to Mergozzo, weaving between the trees and hugging the shoreline. The whole way you’ll catch flashes of the lake sparkling through the branches, and every bend feels like it belongs on a vintage postcard. It’s where locals head for a passeggiata, kids race ahead with gelato dripping down their hands, and visitors linger a little too long on the benches pretending they might just move here one day. It’s a 3 km, only 1.9 miles, hour long walk from Mergozzo up to Montorfano or vice versa that trails around Lago di Mergozzo. The trail is clearly marked and can be found about 20 yards before the town of Montorfano. I recommend you start up at Montorfano and make your way down and grab a bite to eat in Mergozzo!
6. Visit Montorfano and Its Romanesque Church
Montorfano has a special place in my story—my parents got married here. The hamlet’s name means “orphan mountain,” and it sits between Lake Maggiore and Lago di Mergozzo, carved from the same white granite that built Rome’s Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le Mura. At the top is the Romanesque Church of St. John the Baptist, where history feels thick in the air. I still love climbing the stone steps to the belvedere for that sweeping view over three lakes—the Borromeo Islands shimmering in the distance like jewels.
7. Treat Yourself at Gelateria Aurora
Gelateria Aurora isn’t just a gelateria—it’s an institution. One of the historic gelaterie of the area, it’s a tappa obbligata (a must visit) if you find yourself anywhere near Lake Maggiore. I’ve been coming here since I was 14, when my friends and I would pile into a car just to make the trip for a cone. That’s how good the gelato has always been. The portions are massive (two scoops here could qualify as a meal), and the flavors? Still legendary decades later. The only catch: everyone knows it’s this good, so expect long lines. Best to avoid peak hours unless you enjoy queueing with half the province for your gelato fix.
8. Dine at Trattoria Risottino
Pat proposed to me at Lago delle Streghe in Alpe Veglia, and that same evening we drove straight to Trattoria Risottino to celebrate. It felt fitting—after all, Piedmont is Italy’s rice country, and risotto here isn’t just a dish, it’s practically a birthright. But Risottino takes it to a whole new level with what they call risottini di fantasia—fantasy risottos you’d never dream up yourself. We ordered the carbonara version, topped with a raw egg and sprinkled with coffee beans. Weird? Absolutely. Delicious? Even more so. Dessert was a tiramisù that I still think about to this day, creamy and just boozy enough to feel a little mischievous. For me, this trattoria will always be tied to that milestone night, but honestly—it deserves a spot on anyone’s list, ring or no ring. Reservations are a must.
9. Spiaggia la Rustica
La Rustica isn’t your typical crowded lake beach—it’s more of a locals’ secret, and the kind of place that feels like it was designed with kids (and new parents) in mind. The water stays shallow for ages, forming little natural pools where babies and toddlers can splash safely, while parents don’t have to hover in panic mode. There’s a grassy area for spreading out blankets, plenty of shade for mid-day naps, and the water is so clean it almost sparkles. I’ve started bringing Sibby here, and it’s one of the few spots where I can actually relax while she “swims.” Just one tip from experience: pack the bug spray—mosquitos love this place as much as the kids do.
10. Cliff Jump
Every lake town has that one thing the teenagers do for bragging rights. In Mergozzo, it’s throwing yourself off cliffs on the way to Sentiero Azzurro. The drop? Anywhere from 10 to 15 meters. The audience? A mix of locals egging you on and tourists nervously clutching their phones, waiting to see if you’ll resurface. If you’re feeling tempted, keep in mind: the lake’s water level changes every year depending on rainfall, so what looked like a perfect splash zone in July might be a rocky no-go in August. Translation: don’t just “wing it.” Ask around, scope it out, and maybe leave the look-at-me swan dive to the kids who grew up here and know the rocks.
11. Dine at Piccolo Lago
If you’re in the mood to trade trattoria tables for white tablecloths, Il Piccolo Lago is the spot. This two-Michelin-starred restaurant sits right on the water, and while the dining room alone is worth the trip, the real magic happens when you book their Barchetta Gourmet. Picture this: instead of engines buzzing (they’re banned here), you glide out on a whisper-quiet electric boat stocked with a chef’s picnic—local cheeses, lake fish, a chilled bottle of bubbly. You drift into hidden corners of Mergozzo, clinking glasses with nothing but mountains and reflections around you. It feels almost illicit, like you’ve snuck a Michelin star out of the kitchen and onto the lake.
That’s Lago di Mergozzo for me—personal, cinematic, and always surprising. I’ve known this lake my whole life, but it still manages to reveal something new every time I return.
>> Next: A Guide to My Italian Hometown: Feriolo, Lago Maggiore
