The art of Italian aperitivo and fine dining with myself, a local, at a Lake Maggiore restaurant at Grand Hotel Majestic.
After an afternoon sun-bathing, SUPing around Pallanza’s ancient villas, and after a well-deserved shower, it was already 6PM. “Just in time for aperitivo,” I said while my mother put on her jewelry. Grand Hotel Majestic was lakefront and in the “mountains,” one could say. A breathtakingly beautiful, remote, and private location steps from the town of Pallanza. Prior to dinner at Grand Hotel Majestic’s Lake Maggiore restaurant we stopped by the Bar La Terrazza. The bar and terrace were spectacular. The interior had elegant staircases and a dark velvet décor that had me feeling decadent and decidedly louche from the moment I entered. I stepped outside onto Bar La Terrazza‘s balcony, ordered a Negroni, and enjoyed the view.
There was something about the nature of Grand Hotel Majestic that made people happy and relaxed, as if they’d found a sheltered corner of paradise, attended by waiters who had the calm courtesy and patience of angels. Our negronis came with some tiny nibbles, typical of aperitivo or happy hour. Think nuts, olives, and mozzarella bites.
I looked up at the sky at the colors changing around me and above my head. With a negroni in hand (or do you prefer wine? a gin and tonic? a spritz?), I thought, there’s no place I’d rather be right now than on Lake Maggiore. The perfect scenery with mountains surrounding me at every angle. I looked towards my hometown of Feriolo. During this time the sun was setting. I watched the sun’s last gasp casting its glow over the lake and mountains. With the effects of the negroni starting to hit me, I turned to my mother and said, “I don’t know about you, but I am starving.” I reached for a nut and popped it into my mouth. It was time to head down to Grand Hotel Majestic’s Lake Maggiore restaurant, La Beola, for dinner.
The lead waiter stood at the entrance to greet each guest with a very natural attentiveness. He led us to a table laid with a blush pink table cloth and pink napkins. The table was perfectly situated in the middle of the outdoor dining terrace, where we had a view of the twinkling lights on the lake in the distance. A waiter plunked down a bottle of still water. I unfolded my napkin and dropped it in my lap, reaching immediately for the fresh bread brought to our table. Apparently, Prince Pierre Casiraghi of Monaco and Countess Beatrice Borromeo had dined at La Beola a few days before their wedding on Isola di San Giovanni. If this Lake Maggiore restaurant was good enough for a Prince and Countess, it was a must on my radar!
The Maître D went through the menu. Rather than choose to our own hearts desire, we let the waiter recommend the plates of the day for us. As an antipasto we ordered zuppa or crema di fave con calamari—translated to creamy bean soup with calamari—a combination that when said out loud made me blink twice, but to my surprise was a sensational pairing. It was like being introduced to beans and calamari for the first time.
Our antipasto was followed with a subtle flourish by our main dish, veal. The veal consisted of sliced vegetables and an interesting topping and side garment. The veal had been roasted for hours. You could taste it from how it melted in your mouth upon impact. The juices intensely tingling your taste buds with every bite. All the food at this Lake Maggiore restaurant was served in just the right amounts. As a result, you could eat everything without over-doing it.
Meanwhile, the elegant Maître D, with his alert, intelligent eyes, was assessing the progress of everyone’s meals. No one was ever left wanting. The effect of this careful attentiveness was that all the diners settled into a contented hum of dignified conversation.
Finally, just before the coffee, came dessert. We were so full. Therefore we ordered a simple bowl of seasonal fresh fruit. We had planned on going for a walk to Pallanza to feel out the night scene. However, after dinner at La Beola, we were far too relaxed and happy to leave Grand Hotel Majestic.
>> Next: Borromean Islands: Visit Isola dei Pescatori, Lake Maggiore
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