A Winter Afternoon in Pallanza, Verbania: Lago Maggiore

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Mention “The Lakes” in Italy and the first that comes to mind is Lake Como. Little do they know that another hidden jewel lives right next door—Lake Maggiore, the second biggest lake in all of Italy. Today, we focus on the quaint town of Pallanza.

Photography property of SVADORE

Lago Maggiore acts a boundary between 2 regions—Lombardy and Piedmont. Its water also lies between two countries, on one end of the lake is Italy and on the other is Switzerland. In the summer it is packed with tourists from Germany and Switzerland and Milanese people escaping the summer heat. But in the winter, the small towns on Lago Maggiore, including Pallanza, are left to the locals. Although it might seem quiet, and at times almost deserted, during the winter is when you really get the opportunity to appreciate the true beauty and serenity of this area.

Take the small town of Pallanza for instance. An antique town, or paese, that has survived multiple battles and blows in history. Following independence from Austria in 1859, noble Italian families discovered the jewel that is Lago Maggiore and started creating glamorous and opulent villas along the banks of the Lake, many which can be found in Pallanza. My mom and I took a casual stroll after lunch one day in February and decided to take an inside look at some of these derelict villas.

In recent years, due to the changing economical and political climate of Italy, a lot of the beautiful villas found in this town have been abandoned, forgotten and left to ruin with no owners to take care of them. Yet beauty can still be found in what once was. A street that leads to a lakefront path can be found at the beginning of Intra that extends to Pallanza. Along this street lie some of the most beautiful historical and artistic patrimonies, in this case Villas, of Lago Maggiore.

I found a passageway between 2 villas that allowed me to walk down to the lake. On a clear day you can see Monte Rosa and its glacier-covered peaks, some which are among the highest in the Alps. In the winter you can take advantage of the mountains and head up for a day of skiing, while in the summer you can pack a lunch and go for a morning hike. If you are daring enough, you can even pitch a tent and stay up in the mountains over night! A fishing boat from across the water makes its way towards me. The lake is still, no sounds, no tourists, just the stillness of the water and the cold winter air.

You know you are reaching the heart of Pallanza when you start to see Villa Giulia (pronounced Julia). Originally created by the inventor of the liquor Fernet, Bernardino Branca, the Villa is named Giulia dedicated by his son to his wife. In recent years the Villa used to be home to a club called Kursaal, that was full of life on late summer nights. Today it is owned by the City of Verbania and is used for ceremonies, matrimonies, and art exhibits. Its lakefront gardens still remain public and are open to the public for aperitivo and late night drinks, which I recommend. If you go in the summer remember to bring bug spray, the park is full of mosquitos due to the humid summer air!

On the side of Villa Giulia lies a harbor. There is no one in sight. The sun is shining, there is a couple of colored fishing boats tied to the docks and a cat is casually lying in the grass taking in some of the suns rays. I stop to take a shot of this tranquil and picturesque corner of Pallanza. To me, this little scene captures one of the many beauties of Lake Maggiore in all it’s glory.

In the summer Pallanza’s lakefront is filled with outdoor cafés lined with live music, shows, fireworks and regattas all facing the stunning Borromean Islands in the center of Lago Maggiore. In the winter, it’s rich in nature. Swans, ducks, snow-capped mountains, and no one in sight once again. Utter peace. An amazing break from the rush and noise of New York City. Shielded by magnolias and oleanders, the town’s quaysides offer magnificent views of the mountains, which are reflected in the deep blue waters of the lake. At the end of the street lies a dock where the ferry drops off passengers in the summer to get them across the lake, from Stresa to Pallanza.

Start walking uphill on Pallanza’s main street Via Ruga. You will find yourself whizzing in and out of streets captivated by the ancient streets and colorful buildings rich in porticoes, ornamental doorways and flowered balconies. Here you won’t find commercial stores but small cafés, leather shops, pastry shops, antique liquor stores and more.

For a true taste of Lago Maggiore, end your winter afternoon in Pallanza by stopping by Spiga D’Oro at the top of Via Ruga. Here you will find some of the best pastries in Lago Maggiore, according to many locals. I recommend the famous Margheritine di Stresa, a specialty of the neighboring town Stresa that is sold across all of Lago Maggiore. The history of these local delicacies goes back to the mid-1800s. Princess Elisabetta of Saxony, Duchess of Genoa, and her daughter, Margherita used to come and stay at Villa Ducale in Stresa. As a gift to Margherita for her first communion, a local Pastry chef named Pietro Antonio Bolongaro created these indulgent biscuits. The Princess liked the biscuits so much, that once she became Queen she decreed that the Margheritine di Stresa be the staple pastry in the Royal House for the holiday Ferragosto. They taste kind of like a shortbread cookie, BUT BETTER. Like all Italian recipes, it is made with simple ingredients the main ones being vanilla, lemon zest and a touch of icing sugar.

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11 comments
  1. Super photos! I really enjoyed your article. What a shame about the abandoned villas. Hopefully one day it will return to being a busy thriving place.

    1. Still busy and thriving 🙂 it’s just that some of the villas have not been occupied in years. Hope people will take advantage of this and save up to restore some of these villas!

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