A mix of royalty and some of the best, most authentic food within the old Heart of Paris. Here’s my Paris neighborhood guide to the famed 1st arrondissement and less frequented, yet unpredictable, 2nd arrondissement.
Most of the buildings in the old heart of Paris date back to the 18th century, before Haussmann’s overhaul of the city. Hence why the 1st and 2nd arrondissements are known as the “Old Paris.” Although in architecture the two arrondissements may be similar, the two couldn’t be more different–like ying and yang. The 1st arrondissement is touristy with le Louvre, Place Vendome, and more. The 2nd arrondissement is the financial district, so is much quieter and less visited, which is unfortunate since it has so much going on. The two paint a beautiful picture of how Paris’ continues to innovate while preserving tradition and eras such as the Belle Epoque. That’s why a Paris neighborhood guide of the 1st and 2nd arrondissements is in order. One should not be overshadowed by the other and both have something unique to offer.
Quick Navigation: Paris Neighborhood Guide: 1st and 2nd Arrondissements
Where to Stay:
1. Hotel Mansart (1st Arrondissement)
You should stay here if: You’re looking for a taste of real, traditional, authentic Paris in an intimate boutique hotel tucked within a quiet alley. The hotel is a living and breathing work of art that tells a unique history and story.
Where to Stay in Paris: Hotel Mansart
Sleep in what feels like a historical museum at Hotel Mansart. The perfect place for a peaceful retreat or long-term stay in the first arrondissement. Hotel Mansart is an 18th century mansion steeped in art and history at every corner. The history it has makes it a unique stay in the heart of Paris, just steps from Place Vendôme, the Opera House, and the Louvre. The hotel has over 120 works in the rooms and public spaces from period paintings to statues and furniture. If you’re looking for those charming Parisian balconies you see pictures on Instagram and online, then book a room facing Rue des Capucines. Breakfast is served in room or in the dining room, but with rooms like these you’ll never want to leave.
2. Hotel des Grands Boulevards (2nd Arrondissement)
You should stay here if: You’re looking for a fun, young, millennial, and happening hotel with bars, clubs, and restaurants both inside the hotel and in the surrounding area.
Best Places to Stay in Paris: Hotel des Grands Boulevards
If you want to know where all the young travelers are staying and posh locals are hanging out in Paris, then head to Hotel des Grands Boulevards. This 50-room boutique hotel is located in the lively 2nd arrondissement adjacent to bars, restaurants, and clubs. The hotel has everything you would want all under one roof including an intimate bar called The Shell, the exquisite Grands Boulevards restaurant for dinner, and a rooftop bar called the The Shed for post-dinner drinks.
What to Do in the 1st and 2nd Arrondissement:
1. Paris’ Secret Passages
9 Secret Passages in Paris and Why They’re Unique
You’ve seen la Tour Eiffel, le Louvre, and Notre Dame. Now what’s next? Stroll through 9 secret passages in Paris. Four of the nine passages I visited are within the 1st and 2nd arrondissement. It’s fitting to start in the 2nd arrondissement at Passage des Panorama, the first covered passage or arcade ever built in Paris. Here you’ll find vintage postcard stalls, stamp, coin, and autograph collectors as well as an antique theater that still has shows. From here go on to visit the remaining three, which are home to a number of vintage and high-end boutique stores, wine cellars, high-tea rooms, handmade jewellery, furniture, and more. All on the vintage and luxe side given their arrondissement.
2. Rue Montorgueil
Rue Montorgueil is a cobblestone street mainly lined with cafes, fish shops, pastry shops, restaurants, and a ton of interesting food options. At the southern end of the street you will find Les Halles, the largest indoor or underground shopping mall in Paris. Les Halles takes me back to my French studies when we read the novel Le Ventre de Paris by Émile Zola. The book is centered around Les Halles. It is a must-visit not only for it’s current architecture and stores, but for it’s rich history. The northern most street on Rue Montorgueil is Grand Boulevards, where our hotel was located.
Rue Montorgueil acted as the artery of Les Halles. Back in the day it was were all the fish, particularly oysters and escargots, would end up before going to Les Halles. To this day you can find some of the best oysters at Au Rocher de Cancale, mentioned by Balzac as one of the most authentic cuisine in Paris. Today, it can almost be considered the leading foodie street in Paris.
3. Place de Valois
Pictured above you see me shielding myself from the rain under Passage Vérité, which dates back to 1750. It’s located directly in front of Place de Valois and in the past housed booksellers and prints merchants. It’s a pedestrian only square and has a wonderful hotel and restaurant on each corner right next to the le Palais Royal.
4. Louvre Museum
Probably one of the most famous places to visit in Paris, the Louvre museum is a wonderful place to see on your first, second, or even tenth time to Paris. With so much art and history inside, you can spend days lost inside the museum. Although, it’s most famously known for being home to the Mona Lisa, I think it’s claim to fame comes more from it’s architectural anomaly. The entrance to the Louvre is a glass pyramid, which hundreds stop in front of to take pictures. The reason for its pyramid shape is that it was the most inconspicuous shape to seamlessly fit with the silhouette of the Louvre.
5. Palais-Royal, Cour d’Honneur, Colonnes de Buren
When you think of the Palais-Royal, what comes to mind for many is the controversial art installation located in the Cour d’Honneur, court of honor, inner courtyard. 280 black and white columns of various sizes were installed in 1986 by French artist Daniel Buren. The installation goes by two names: Colonnnes de Buren, the columns of Buren, or Les Deux Plateaux, or the two trays. The art installation was meant to detract from a ventilation shaft under the court. There significance? I’m not entirely sure and apparently so aren’t many others. The interpretation is left up to the eye of the beholder.
6. Palais-Royal Garden
Palais-Royal garden is the only garden in Paris classified as a “remarkable garden” by the French Ministry of Culture. I’m not sure what that means exactly, but I’m going to assume that’s a high honor! Located next to the Palais-Royal, that is not open to the public, the Louvre, and the Colonnes de Burne, this free garden is a perfect place for a respite from the crowds. Surrounding the perimeter of the garden are vintage covered arcades with over 145 boutiques that serve galleries, barber shops, and cafes. Within this arcade, you’ll find Paris’ first restaurant–the Grand Véfour.
Where to Eat in the 1st and 2nd Arrondissement:
1. Stohrer
Pâtisserie Stohrer: The Oldest Bakery in Paris
Want to eat like royalty in Paris? Follow the royal family among others and grab a pastry at the oldest bakery in Paris, Pâtisserie Stohrer, for a notable and unforgettable experience. Founded by Nicolas Stohrer, King Louis XV’s pastry chef, and creator of delicacies rum babas, chiboust cream tart, puits d’amour, traditional style religieuse, among others, don’t visit this gem on Rue Montorgueil on a full stomach.
2. Hotel des Grands Boulevards Restaurant
Where to Eat and Drink in Paris: Hotel des Grands Boulevards
Don’t cast aside hotels when deciding where to eat and drink in Paris. Hotels are now focusing on exceptional culinary and cocktail experiences, turning the experience of staying at hotels into destinations themselves. The Grands Boulevards Hotel Restaurant and Rooftop Bar has a unique scene and is one of the best hotels for foodies in Paris. The Roman chef Chef Giovanni Passerini is known for his infamous restaurant Rino, that sent shock waves in the Parisian foodie community when it came to Italian food. By far, one of the best meals we had in Paris and we were utterly surprised by the fact that it was located right under our bedroom!
Where to Drink in the 1st and 2nd Arrondissement:
1. Cafe le Brebant
There is no shortage of unique and stunning cafés in Paris. Here’s SVADORE’s list of 17 best cafes in Paris. Just across from our stay at Hotel de Grands Boulevards was Cafe Brebant, a tropical escape within a cafe. Outside are a number of space heaters and outdoor tables with green plants wrapping the ceiling. On the inside you’ll find enormous woven wicker baskets accompanied by pendant lights hanging from the ceiling turning the cafe into a tropical oasis. If your looking for a vacation-worthy slice of paradise, this is your getaway.
2. The Shell Hotel des Grands Boulevards
Where to Eat and Drink in Paris: Hotel des Grands Boulevards
If you’ve decided to enjoy dinner at Hotel des Grands Boulevards, then don’t miss out on their epic cocktails prior to dinner at the Shell bar. The atmosphere is very intimate, think dark blue velvet low armchairs and stools, with red walls, and a steel or aluminum bar with round bulbs hanging from the ceiling like pearls in an oyster. The drink menu is short, but on point, and you can’t go wrong with any cocktail you choose.
3. The Shed Hotel des Grands Boulevards
Where to Eat and Drink in Paris: Hotel des Grands Boulevards
If you’re looking for something more casual and less intimate, then head on up to The Shed rooftop bar at Hotel des Grands Boulevards. The setting is stunning during the day and a very cool place to hang at night. The rooftop surrounds the glass restaurant below and plays classy yet nouveau French music all day long. There is no food served on the roof, so make sure to come with an already full belly. In the colder winter months, space heaters surround the rooftop making the temperature bearable. Very on fleek.
Have More Time? Go to…
1. Macaroons at Carette
Carette was founded by a lady in the early 1900s as a tea room that specialized in macaroons. Now there are multiple locations throughout Paris. Although names like Laduree and Pierre Herme are thrown around, many are adamant that Carette has the best macaroons in Paris. They are the perfect level of crunchy for a macaroon. Give them a try and see it for yourself! I didn’t get the chance to stop by one of their locations, but I know I will the next time I am in Paris. Next time I’ll do a roundup of the top 5 macaroon places in Paris and review each one for you all!
2. Tuileries Garden
Hidden behind the Palais-Royal garden, this is another garden to visit should you have the time. Particulary in the fall or spring when the colors of the leaves are changing or the flowers are blooming. As you explore its 22 acres, you will find over 200 sculptures and vases. From June to August, a beautiful and magical fair called Fête des Tuileries brings in merry-go-rounds, ferris wheels, cotton candy, games, and more. It’s an awesome way to spend a summer afternoon outdoors in the presence of this stunning royal garden!
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