My Experience Hiking Mount Etna (Without A Guide)

A candid guide to hiking Mount Etna and the Silvestri Craters without a guide—what happened when we went off-trail, why we turned back, and what you need to know before going.
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There’s something kind of poetic about setting out to climb one of the world’s most active volcanoes—no guide, no plan—just good intentions and questionable judgment. That’s exactly what Pat and I did after getting engaged a few days earlier (yes, the ring made an appearance in the volcanic ash). We headed up Mount Etna and explored the Silvestri Craters on our own, riding that just-engaged high straight into the ash-covered unknown. Spoiler alert: we didn’t make it to the top. The fog rolled in, the wind kicked up, and we realized very quickly that nature doesn’t care about your itinerary. Here’s the full story of how we started a DIY volcano hike and why we very wisely decided to turn back.

Article Recap on TikTok:

@svadore Thought we could casually hike a volcano. Mount Etna had other plans. ☁️ 💀 #mountetna #travelfails #volcano #sicily #italytravel ♬ original sound – Sveva Marcangeli

Fun Facts…

  • Mount Etna isn’t shy—it erupts almost once a year.
  • The name “Etna” literally translates to I burn.
  • Bet you didn’t expect this: you can ski on Mount Etna in the winter.
  • Hidden near the summit are natural ice caves, or grotte di ghiaccio, formed by volcanic heat meeting snowfall.
  • That dramatic, ashy soil around Etna? It’s gold for grapes. This region produces some of Italy’s most prized wines, especially bold reds made from the native Nerello Mascalese grape.
  • Etna is one of the most active volcanoes on the planet.
  • Standing at over 10,000 feet, she’s also Europe’s tallest volcano.
  • In 2013, Mount Etna was crowned a UNESCO World Heritage.

As we ascended toward the top of Mount Etna from our sun-drenched wine resort at the base, the mood shifted—fast. One minute we were basking in Sicilian sun, and the next, we were zipped into jackets, bracing against a sudden chill. The wind howled like it was trying to say something. Up here, the air is thinner, the sky moodier, and the energy downright primal. Layer up—it’s a whole different world from the warm coast below. It felt like the volcano was reminding us who’s boss. Notice how in the pictures Pat and I go from wearing one sweatshirt to two.

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My Experience Hiking Mount Etna and the Silvester Craters (Without A Guide)

We parked at the Crateri Silvestri—Etna’s “ground floor,” if you will—where a collection of easily accessible craters wait to be explored. The ground here isn’t solid so much as it is alive. Hiking boots are a must; every step is a battle with shifting ash that swallows your feet like volcanic quicksand. The trails are well-marked, though, and the scenery? Otherworldly.

We were still glowing from our engagement a few days earlier at Lake Maggiore, so naturally, I had to snap a few shots of the ring against the volcanic ash. Why? Because I used to work for a natural diamond company, and diamonds are born from—you guessed it—volcanic eruptions. Seemed poetic.

Pat and I poked around the popular craters before feeling bold and hiking upward toward Etna’s summit, where few seemed to venture. Some people go all the way up. We made it about an hour before the fog rolled in, the wind whipped harder, and everything turned a little too Man vs Wild. With no clear path and ash sinking beneath our feet, we decided to turn back. Was it smart? Yes. Was it exhilarating? Absolutely. We saw some people continue up…but we were not brave enough. Can it be done without a guide? Yes, but it’s scary, especially on a foggy day.

If you’re not in the mood to test your survival instincts, there’s a cable car that takes you from the same area straight up to Etna’s main crater. Just make sure the skies are clear—otherwise you’ll be staring into a big, foggy nothing.

>> Next: The Best of the Aeolian Islands: A 5 Day Itinerary

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