Nominated as one of I borghi piu’ belli d’Italia, translated to “the most beautiful villages of Italy,” Neive is easily missed. But, it should be a must while visiting the Langhe region.
Just a stone’s throw away from Alba, perched on the top of a hill, the medieval walled village of Neive. It’s position as one of the highest mounts in Langhe made it a top pick among nobility back in the day. In fact, the name Neive comes from the noble Roman family Naevia that used to own the village. It’s charming cobblestone alleys and ancient stone buildings lead up to the Clock Tower at the center of the village. Today, Neive is divided into two sections: old Neive and new Neive. What we’ll be focusing on today is my visit to old Neive.
When parking make sure to mark where you’re leaving your car. It’s very easy to get lost in Neive. The cobblestone streets form maze-like circles around the hilltop village, until you reach the clock tower at the top. The heart of Neive is Piazza Italia, a 17th century piazza that houses bars and administrative buildings. Walking through it feels like your walking through a medieval village. Old people on both sides sipping their coffees at il bar amicably yelling at each other from one side of the piazza to the other. Town hall is at the center, in a white antique Palace with arch entryways on the bottom and a clock on the top. An elegant mural at the end of the piazza depicts Neive in the fall.
Continuing past the piazza you get to the iron gateway. It used to be the entrance to the gardens of the palace of the counts of Castelborgo. It was in this palace that Nebbiolo grapes were first transformed into Barbaresco wine. While there are a few historical stops, such as this one, and restaurants and cafes along the way, the true beauty of Neive lies in its architecture. It’s beauty can be felt by simply walking around the villages maze-like streets and taking in how it maintained its pristine 18th century vibe so intact.
Follow signs for vista panoramica on Via Giachino to get to the highest point in Neive. From here you can take in the old palaces below and views of the rolling vineyards below.
Continuing down Via Giachino is the old church Chiesa di San Michele. It’s simple in the front and looks like any other church, but it’s a party in the back. From behind you have a baroque dome and tower that is one of the many unique architectural symbols of Neive.
As you loop around you’ll come across a second pink church. Connected to a brick bed and breakfast in front a vine-covered wine tasting shop and restaurant. This mini piazza feels like something straight out of the 1800s. Even the chairs are made from wine barrels…how clever! Alba is overlooked. It may not have the super lavish hotels, amenities, and tours that one may search for in bigger cities, but it brings to life the quaint, everyday life of Italian vinters of the area. Visiting feels like your walking in nobilities shoes back in the 1800s, with a taste of innovation along the way as you visit the numerous enoteche or wine shops around town.
>> Next: Visit Italy’s Wine Villages: Barolo Wine Region
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