~ Arrive in Feriolo ~

Afternoon: Check into the "Native’s Choice" B&B

If you are planning a Lake Maggiore 10 day itinerary, the best way to see the region is by basing yourself in Feriolo and renting a car to explore the surrounding Ossola mountains and Borromean Islands. Spending 10 days on Lago Maggiore allows you to move past the tourist traps of Stresa and experience the authentic, 'gatekept' side of the Italian lakes.

Pick up a rental car at Malpensa Airport, trust me, it’s the best way to see the real Italy, where every turn off the autostrada (i.e. highway) leads to a completely different slice of life, and make your way to the quiet, under-the-radar town of Feriolo on Lake Maggiore. It’s my little hometown, where my mom grew up and where I keep coming back to. A place where time slows down, the characters are straight out of a novel, and the kind of everyday beauty you can’t fake just wraps around you. Check into a hotel, charming B&B, or a cozy Airbnb. I usually stay at my mom’s place, but I’ve stayed at a local bed and breakfast before and absolutely loved the experience.

Aperitivo: Bar Rosso

Ease into your 10 days on Lago Maggiore with an aperitivo at Bar Rosso. You get a generous spread of snacks with your drink (yes, they still exist), but the real showstopper is the view of il Böcc. That’s the name of the little beach just below—Feriolo dialect for “the hole,” since it's tucked at the bottom of stone steps like a scooped-out nook in the village. When lake levels rise after a heavy rain, the entire beach can vanish underwater. It’s low-key, super affordable, and a perfect perch for people-watching. If you're lucky, a local with a mic might serenade the sunset.

Dinner: Molo 54

One of the oldest—and hands down one of the most unique—places to eat in Feriolo (and honestly, all of Lago Maggiore) is Molo 54. It’s not every day you get to dine aboard a vintage 1950s boat…without ever setting sail. The boat stays anchored right at shore.

The menu leans into lake life, with fresh fish front and center. Everything’s made in-house—from the pasta to the bread to the dreamy desserts. If you manage to snag a reservation for lunch on the bow (and yes, definitely book ahead), you’ll sit under a breezy pergola with front-row views of Feriolo. Daytime’s best for the scenery—sunlight glinting off the water, the whole village in view. Dinner? More moody and romantic, with the twinkle of village lights dancing across the lake.

Just a heads-up: if the lake’s feeling a little rowdy that day, you might feel the boat sway a bit. Seasick types, consider yourselves warned. There's also an on-land option right outside the boat, but honestly...why skip the charm? There's even a bar-style table setup along the boat’s edge if you want a more casual vibe with the same stellar view.

Favorites? The linguine del Molo 54 with tomatoes and seafood, the branzino to start, and their impossibly light chantilly cream dessert. Trust me—it’s a vibe.

~ Day 1: Feriolo & Boat Tour ~

Breakfast: Caffè del Principato

Over the years this place has changed many owners and had many names. Most recently it’s been a cafe with stunning views of the docks and il Böcc, our main beach. This is the most scenic bar to enjoy breakfast with the lake and mountains in the background, the swans and ducks swimming below, and the occasional boat going by in the distance. It opens it bright and early at 7AM and serves both breakfast, lunch, and aperitivo. It’s open year round.

Morning: Chill & Explore Feriolo

A Guide to My Italian Hometown: Feriolo, Lago Maggiore

Tucked between Baveno and Suna on Lake Maggiore, Feriolo is my mother’s hometown and the quiet Italian village I keep returning to. It’s the kind of place where locals still outnumber tourists, dialect is spoken as much as Italian, and stories are passed around over espresso at Bar Gallo or Bar Principato and aperitivo at Pane e Vino. You can laze on the lakeside beach known as il Böcc, hike to abandoned medieval towers, or rent a boat from Il Cantiere del Verbano and cruise to the Borromean Islands. Come in late July for La Festa del Böcc, a 9-night celebration of food, music, and dancing. From scenic walks and playful memories of climbing trees and eating Nutella-filled pizza dough desserts, to unforgettable meals at Vistaqua, La Terrazza, and even a floating dinner on the historic Molo 54 boat—this is a village full of charm, history, and soul. Feriolo isn’t for the rushed traveler; it’s for the curious ones seeking slow magic, local flavor, and a true sense of place.

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Lunch: La Terrazza

One of my favorite stops is La Terrazza & Mirafiori Restaurant. It's owned by a good friend of ours, Luca, another great person to stop by for a riveting conversation. He spends half of his year working at La Terrazza Mirafiori and the other half travelling the world in exotic and tropical destinations. He has a number of stories to tell, is super friendly, and is always up for conversation. His restaurant is always packed and serves great local Italian dishes and pizza. In the mornings it's quieter, but for lunch and dinner it's some of the best service and food you can get. In my opinion, he has the best brioche in Feriolo. His latest concoction though is a killer panino or 'sandwich' you just have to try. He calls it a panino, but in reality it's a mix of cured meats, cheeses, and veggies, however you'd like, made with his light pizza dough bread. Now I know what you're thinking, pizza dough bread? That sounds heavy...I promise you it is super light!! His pizza dough is some of the best in the area. For dessert, grab a coffee with a fior di latte gelato scoop in it, you won't regret it!

Afternoon: Rent A Boat At Il Cantiere del Verbano

My Experience Renting A Boat on Lake Maggiore (No Boating License Required)

For any Lake Maggiore 10 day itinerary, being on the water is a prerequisite. Just a 5 minute walk from Il Bocc beach is Il Cantiere del Verbano. Here you can rent boats for a half day or a full day with and without a boating license for just 90 - 200 euro depending on the size of the boat, number of people, and experience level. It's so much fun and totally worth doing! You can take the boats to the Isole Borromeo, or Borromean Islands, anchor at one of the public moorings infront of Isola Madre and go for a swim, go to Santa Caterina del Sasso to see the cathedral in the rocks, and loop around Intra and Pallanza's stunning old villas. This and so much more. Don't forget to pack some prosciuttos and formaggi (cheeses) for the boat ride.

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Aperitivo: La Casera, Intra

Local’s deem this the best aperitivo in all of Lago Maggiore. La Casera makes aperitivo a science. Eros Buratti’s attention to detail and service is what makes it the local favorite for aperitivo. Located in Piazza Ranzoni in Intra, it’s a perfect place for people watching with a glass of wine in hand. Eros Buratti and his team at La Casera are constantly in search of the most interesting and stimulating cheese producers from all over Italy and specializes in the production of cheese from raw, unprocessed milk in the local area of Piemonte and the Ossola Valley. Even the cured meats are refined, some never heard of before or dry aged for over 10 years. Aperitivo’s here are a unique sensorial experience.

~ Day 2: Langhe-Roero Monferrato Winery Day Trip ~

Breakfast: La Terrazza

Remember that pizza panino I devoured yesterday? Well, breakfast here holds its own. Picture this: a buttery brioche that flirts with perfection, a freshly squeezed orange juice, the obligatory cappuccino, and a front-row seat to Lake Maggiore glistening in the morning light. It’s a quick but satisfying stop, because today, you're leaving the lake for wine country, specifically the Langhe-Roero Monferrato region. That’s the beauty of spending 10 days on Lago Maggiore: everything is within reach.

Not many travelers know it by name, but it could give Tuscany a run for its money, without the crowds or the price tag.

That’s the magic of this corner of Italy: from Lago Maggiore, everything is within reach. Wine country, the buzz of Milan, alpine peaks, shimmering lakes, even the Ligurian coast—all no more than two hours away. It’s why, if you're spending 10 days here, day trips aren’t just recommended—they’re essential.

Morning: Cella Monte

Cella Monte, Italy: Underground Wine & Dreamy Picnics

Tucked just a couple hours from Milan or Lake Maggiore, Cella Monte is a cinematic little village in the Langhe-Roero Monferrato wine region—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that rivals Tuscany in flavor but trades the crowds for quiet charm. It's the perfect day trip for when it's raining at the Lake and you're looking for sunshine just an hour or two away. Known for its underground infernots—hand-carved wine cellars made of fossil-rich marine stone—and its “most beautiful villages in Italy” status, Cella Monte blends history, craftsmanship, and slow living.

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Lunch: Agricola Coppo Giovanni

Cella Monte, Italy: Underground Wine & Dreamy Picnics

We picked up a dreamy picnic basket from the family-run winery Agricola Coppo Giovanni in Cella Monte, packed with homemade local delicacies—carpaccio, spinach frittata, salami, robiola, and Nonna Chicca’s crostata (yes, we met her—she’s 86 and pure sunshine). We set up beneath a chestnut tree next to a tiny chapel overlooking the village, popped open two bottles of wine, and let the afternoon melt into a nap serenaded by church bells and the soft mooing of cows—il dolce far niente in full effect. Afterward, we returned the basket and strolled the vines, learning that Coppo Giovanni also hosts sunset AperiVigna (aperitivo, i.e. happy hour, in the vines) and seasonal events that truly make this hidden corner of Italy feel like a storybook come to life.

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Afternoon: Scenic drive & the Big Bench Project

Drinks: La Palma Rooftop Bar

If you're not quite ready to call it a night and you're craving something with a little polish, make your way to the rooftop bar at La Palma. By day, it’s a sun-drenched perch with an infinity pool that spills into views of the lake. But come sunset? The whole place shifts into something cinematic, golden light, clinking glasses, and just the right amount of buzz in the air.

~ Day 3: Stresa & Borromean Islands ~

Breakfast: Il Gigi Bar, Stresa

Gigi Bar in Stresa is one of those places that feels like it’s been there forever—because, well, it kind of has. Housed in a beautiful Liberty-style building, it’s been serving up cappuccinos since the 1800s, perched right across from the ferry pier at Corso Italia 30. Locals and visitors alike flock here for the fresh, house-made brioche and that timeless morning ritual of coffee and pastry. These days, it’s under new ownership, and while some of the old-school charm has faded, it still holds onto its legacy—especially with a plate of margheritine di Stresa in hand.

Morning: Stresa

Stresa, Lago Maggiore: My Guide After 30+ Summers

After over 30 summers exploring Lago Maggiore, I’ve learned that Stresa isn’t just the lake’s postcard-perfect star—it’s a mood, a ritual, a glimpse into Italy’s Belle Époque glamour and centuries-old stories. From strolling its golden sandstone streets and savoring the royal-inspired Margheritine biscuits to discovering hidden gems like the lakeside L’Idrovolante and panoramic hikes up Mottarone, Stresa balances historic grandeur with intimate local charm. Whether you’re sipping a violet spritz on the Sky Rooftop Bar or lingering over Michelin-worthy meals near the Borromean Islands, this lakeside town invites you to slow down, soak in its timeless drama, and make memories that stick long after the Alps turn rose-gold at sunset.

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Afternoon: Borromean Islands

Borromean Islands on Lago Maggiore: History, Family, How to Get There, What to See

The Borromean Islands on Lago Maggiore are a captivating cluster of four islands steeped in history and aristocratic allure, owned largely by the noble Borromeo family since the 16th century. While only three—Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola Pescatori—are open to visitors, each offers a unique experience: from the baroque palazzo and lavish terraced gardens of Isola Bella to the exotic botanical wonders of Isola Madre and the quaint fishing village charm of Isola Pescatori. The fourth island, Isola San Giovanni, remains private but can be admired from the nearby Grand Hotel Majestic. Accessible by frequent motorboats or ferries from Stresa, these islands are a must-see for those seeking breathtaking views, rich history, and a taste of Italy’s aristocratic past wrapped in natural beauty.

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Dinner: Fior di Latte, Feriolo

If you’re craving pizza with a twist, head to Feriolo’s Fiore Di Latte Pizzeria. Originally from Mergozzo, this hotspot grew so popular it outgrew its first home and opened a spacious second location in Feriolo, boasting plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. Unlike your standard Margherita, Fiore Di Latte serves up Italian “fantasy” pizzas—pizze a fantasia—that take toppings to the next level. Think vibrant combos like pesto with anchovies, zucchini and asparagus, or even shrimp, tuna, and octopus. Chef Pasquale’s Southern Italian and global influences bring unexpected flavors that will surprise and delight your palate. Just a heads-up: this place fills up fast, especially on weekends, so book ahead to secure your spot.

~ Day 4: Milano Day Trip ~

2 Days in Milan: A First-Timer’s Guide

If you’re short on time but want a true taste of Milan, this 2-day itinerary nails the city’s must-sees and local secrets—no tourist fluff. Having family roots there (my other grandma is from Milan), I’m super familiar with its rhythm. Day one kicks off with a classic Milanese breakfast at Biancolatte, then hits the iconic Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, followed by art-soaked Brera and the hand-crafted pasta at Osteria da Fortunata, capped off by a wild night at Il Patuscino. Day two mixes modern vibes in Porta Nuova, exclusive handmade shoes at Rose’s Roses, and the romantic canals of Navigli, finishing with dinner in spots that still echo Milan’s industrial heritage. It’s a fast track that’ll leave you craving a longer stay—because two days in Milan is just the appetizer.

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~ Day 5: Lago di Mergozzo ~

Breakfast: Bar Gallo

Alright, so Bar Gallo might not win any beauty contests—unlike the charming Cafe Principato or La Terrazza—but it’s got character in spades. Sitting right on Feriolo’s main street (at the top), this spot’s named after the owners’ last name—Gallo, meaning rooster—which explains all the rooster décor clucking around. Back in the day, it was the go-to hangout for the older locals, including my grandparents, who’d while away hours playing cards once the Circolo closed. Nowadays, a few slot machines linger in the back lounge, and the cards are still there, but the elderly card sharks have sadly moved on. What hasn’t changed? Fabio, the guy running the place, still pulls one hell of a coffee. Pop in for a quick caffeine fix and a friendly chat—it might not have a view, but it’s hands down one of the best coffees in Feriolo, perfect for a rushed early morning pit stop.

Morning: Montorfano

The Orphan Hamlet of Montorfano, Mergozzo

Perched above Lago di Mergozzo like a quiet guardian, Montorfano is the kind of place that slips under the radar yet leaves an impression you can’t shake. Known as “the orphan mountain” for its isolated stance between Lake Mergozzo and Lake Maggiore, this tiny hamlet is steeped in history, from its Romanesque Church of St. John the Baptist—crafted from the region’s iconic white granite—to a curious 19th-century Protestant church born from a local feud. Wandering its cobblestone streets, you’ll discover ancient homes, lush gardens, and secret corners that feel untouched by time, all crowned by a belvedere offering sweeping views of three lakes and the Borromeo Islands glimmering in the distance. With connections to the Sentiero Azzurro trail, Montorfano blends history, scenery, and personal stories—like my parents’ wedding—into a small but unforgettable slice of Italian magic.

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Lunch: Ornavasso

To experience the most authentic lunch in the Ossola Valley, you should head to the hills of Ornavasso, where you’ll find a choice between a tranquil lakeside fish sanctuary or a historic hilltop trattoria known for its "nonna-style" chestnut gnocchi. These two spots are the ultimate local secrets, tucked away from the coastal crowds and favored by those who prefer mountain air over lakefront "view taxes."

I have two specific favorites here that I’ve spent years gatekeeping. The first is a lush, green sanctuary centered around a crystal-clear fishing lake, it’s where Patrick and I go when we want the freshest trout imaginable while Sibby is entertained by the ducks. It’s peak dolce far niente. The second is a rustic powerhouse perched high above the town near a historic sanctuary. It’s the kind of place where the architecture is as rugged as the menu, and they serve a specific type of chestnut gnocchi that I’m convinced is the reason my Italian ancestors stayed in these mountains. Because these spots are so deeply local and a bit of a "if you know, you know" situation, I’ve pinned the exact names and GPS coordinates for both exclusively on my private Lago Maggiore Google Map.

Afternoon: Mergozzo, La Rustica & Bar Gelateria Aurora

Lago di Mergozzo: 11 Best Things to Do at Italy's Cleanest Lake

Nestled just off the edges of Lago Maggiore, Lago di Mergozzo feels like a hidden world that time forgot—a glassy, motor-free escape where the water’s clarity mirrors the calm it inspires. In this article, I wander through its secret charms, from paddling and swimming in its pristine waters to strolling the cobblestone lanes of Mergozzo village, savoring the legendary Fugascina pastry, and hiking the postcard-perfect Sentiero Azzurro. I uncover centuries of history at La Cava di Candoglia, indulge in unforgettable local gelato and risottos, and share quiet corners like Spiaggia la Rustica for families or daring cliff jumps for the adventurous. Each stop is a blend of personal memories, sensory discoveries, and insider tips that reveal why Lago di Mergozzo is more than a “tiny lake”—it’s a place you carry with you long after you leave.

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Dinner: Trattoria il Risottino

At Trattoria Risottino, dinner feels less like a meal and more like an initiation into Piedmont’s risotto obsession. Here, the chefs dream up “fantasy risottos” that range from comforting to delightfully bizarre—think carbonara-style with a raw egg and coffee beans on top. I came here the night Pat proposed, so maybe I’m biased, but I believe it's a mandatory part of your 10 days on Lago Maggiore. Between the playful dishes, the perfectly boozy tiramisù, and the warm, lived-in charm of the place, it’s the kind of trattoria that sticks with you long after the plates are cleared. Reservations here are a must.

~ Day 6: Arona Side ~

Breakfast: Jack-Fruit Healthy Lifestyle

The one morning I wandered into Jack-Fruit Healthy Lifestyle, it was already a little late. Too late to catch the brioche, cornetti, and croissants straight from the oven. So I can’t honestly pass judgment on the ultimate, buttery perfection. What I can say is that the selection was dazzling: flavors stacked like little edible curiosities, and yes, even gluten-free cornetti for anyone who needs them. The location is not postcard-pretty. Tucked in an industrial stretch, right across from a marble and granite quarry that feels more “worksite” than “wanderlust,” it’s not the spot you stumble upon by accident. Yet the moment I stepped in, I noticed the rhythm of locals flowing in and out, morning after morning, like clockwork. And if they’re willing to make the trek here, well… so am I.

Morning: Shop the Herno Wholesale Store & Workshop

One of my best-kept secrets, until now, is that there's the Herno outlet tucked right here on Lago Maggiore. You'd never stumble across it unless you knew exactly where to look. So how do I know about this spot? The owners are from Lesa, a tiny lakeside town on Lago Maggiore, and they're friends of an old ex of mine. The store itself is hidden, almost secret, as if it was only supposed to be known by those working at the Herno workshop.

The deals? Phenomenal. Jackets that would normally make your wallet wince at full price suddenly feel like a steal. Pat and I spent countless seasons stocking up here, hunting for the perfect pieces to carry us through crisp Italian winters, but now our closets are full, so we haven't made the pilgrimage in a while. Still, it's one of those places that makes you feel like you've discovered a little local treasure, and now that you know, well... consider yourself let in on the secret.

Morning: Climb to the top of San Carlone

Keep driving past Lesa, letting the lake stretch alongside you, until you approach Arona. Just before the town, your eyes will catch an enormous figure standing guard over Lago Maggiore. San Carlo’s presence is everywhere around the lake—portraits, plaques, little nods tucked into churches and town squares. Even at my nonna’s lakehouse (now my mom’s), there’s a painting of him right in the front entrance, watching over everyone who comes in. And in Arona, his monumental statue looms over the water, a kind of lakeside Statue of Liberty, inviting you to climb to the top and drink in the sweeping view, a panorama that feels like a reward for following the threads of history.

The Borromeos, an influential Milanese aristocratic family, acquired the Borromean Islands in the 16th century. Carlo Borromeo, the nephew of Pope Pius IV Medici, became an ordained priest, consecrated bishop, and eventually a saint. His devotion and vision elevated the family’s prominence, cementing the Borromeos as a dynasty that shaped Milanese history.

Afternoon: Arona

My Bookmarked Spots in Arona, Lago Maggiore: Eat, Shop, Explore

If you find yourself near Arona, it’s worth stopping for lunch before continuing your lakeside journey. I’ll be honest: I don’t linger here often. Arona isn’t the storybook charm of Feriolo, nor does it have the cozy, slightly city-like character of Intra. It leans more modern, more lived-in. But that doesn’t mean it’s without its treasures. A few spots here have caught my eye over the years...

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Dinner: View from Above Stresa

For the ultimate panoramic dinner above Stresa, skip the crowded lakefront and head to a tiny, elevated village. This hilltop sanctuary offers a more polished, quiet alternative to the famous tourist-heavy spots, pairing modern Piedmontese cuisine with a view that justifies the reservation. While most travelers flock to the well-known La Rampolina nearby, I prefer this spot because it’s quieter, more intimate, and significantly more polished. You’re sitting in a garden with a front-row seat to the Borromean Islands while eating dishes that are as thoughtful as the 19th-century architecture. Because this is one of my most requested "if you know, you know" recommendations, I have saved the name and the exact booking link for this restaurant exclusively on my private Lago Maggiore Google Map.

~ Day 7: Pallanza & Intra ~

Check-In: Grand Hotel Majestic

Grand Hotel Majestic: The Magic of A Lake Maggiore Hotel Review

Halfway through the trip, I recommend you change it up. After experiencing the more local side of Lake Maggiore in Feriolo, head for the grander more luxury side. Grand Hotel Majestic offers perfect harmony in every sense of the word. Whether you’re a hotel guest looking for a full immersion or non-hotel guest looking to get a feel of la dolce vita, there is an experience for you at this magical Lake Maggiore hotel. From dining and activities to spa services and sun loungers on a private beach, Grand Hotel Majestic offers visitors a variety of ways to enjoy the Lago Maggiore experience in luxury. The hotel is superbly situated next to Pallanza, one of the three towns that make up the municipality of Verbania. The hotel dates back to the 1870s. It’s golden years were the 1930s, when musicians, artists, and state officials visited the hotel frequently. The hotel was open for almost 150 consecutive years. The owners who oversee the hotel today bought and restored it as closely as possible to it’s original Belle Époque style in 1979.

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Morning: Pallanza

Things to Do in Pallanza, Lake Maggiore: The Local’s Take on Stresa’s Sophisticated Sister

While Stresa draws the crowds, Pallanza is the lake’s sophisticated, "cool girl" sister. It’s where the architecture breathes and the soul of Lake Maggiore truly lives, so much so that Guy Ritchie recently used the Grand Hotel Majestic (my own wedding venue!) and the Church of San Leonardo as primary filming locations for The Gentlemen Season 2.

Beyond the cinematic views, Pallanza is a haven for "gatekept" local gems. You can explore the plaster works of Prince Paolo Troubetzkoy at the Museo del Paesaggio or hunt for rare antique volumes at Librarsi Spalavera. When the sun begins to dip, take the 15-minute lakeside stroll to Suna, a natural "sun-trap" where the locals gather for aperitivo long after the rest of the lake is in shadow. From the royal Margheritine cookies to the "no-frills" piadinas at Piada Cafe, it’s the ultimate spot for those who prefer local secrets over tourist traps.

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Lunch: The Lakefront Fish Spot

My favorite spot is lakefront dining at its most literal (location details in my Lago Maggiore Google Map!). It is on the water; if the water level is high, you could practically throw your napkin into the lake. The mood is incredibly cool. Tip: Come early; it gets packed with locals.

Afternoon: Intra

12 Things To Do in Intra, Lago Maggiore

While the rest of the lake slows down, Intra stays cosmopolitan. It’s the liveliest town on Lake Maggiore, offering a mix of high-end shopping, deep-rooted local history, and a nightlife scene that actually stays awake. Whether you’re escaping a rainy day or looking for a town with a bit more grit and soul, Intra is the place to be.

For the ultimate "gatekept" shopping experience, head straight to Reptile’s House in Piazza Ranzoni. My mom and I, and Pat, have shopped here for decades, and for good reason, they only stock one of each size per item, ensuring your find stays truly exclusive. Afterward, wind your way through the cobblestone alleys to La Casera, where Eros Buratti has turned aperitivo into a science with raw-milk cheeses and rare cured meats that you won’t find anywhere else.

If you’re feeling adventurous, grab dinner at La Rungia and order the lingua di vitello (veal tongue) with green sauce, it’s a fatty, delicate local delicacy that you’ll thank me for later. Cap off the night at Dali, an aperitivo spot set on an old ferry dock, or join the locals at the Spiaggia dell’Arena for a summer beach hang. Intra isn't just a stopover; it’s the lake’s vibrant, beating heart.

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Gelato Break: Gelato d'Altri Tempi

On your way up to the top of Intra, stop for a quick sweet. If it's fall or winter, I recommend you stop for a banging hot chocolate at Frool Fruit Bar. If it's summer and you want the best gelato you'll ever have, Gelato d'altri Tempi, translated to ice cream of another time, in Intra has a line out the door.

Aperitivo: Dali

About 10 years ago, these old school docks were used by the ferry's you see hopping around from town to town at the lakes. This one in Intra is no longer in use. They've now moved the ferry to a newer dock a few minutes down. This works in our favor because places like Dali have taken advantage of the history and turned it into an aperitivo spot literally on the dock. Watch as the ferry boats move behind you, observe the swans and ducks below waiting for a piece of food to fall from above, and take in the panorama.

Dinner: Grand Hotel Majestic

Grand Hotel Majestic in Pallanza is the undisputed destination for a high-end Belle Époque dining experience on Lake Maggiore. Combining a historic 19th-century terrace with refined Piedmontese cuisine at Ristorante La Beola, it offers the lake's most cinematic setting for sunset aperitivos and world-class service.

I’ve spent 30+ summers on these shores, usually oscillating between dusty hiking trails and my family’s home in Feriolo, but the Majestic is where I go when I want to play "Princess of the Lake" for a night. Patrick and I started our evening at Bar La Terrazza, where the dark velvet décor and decadent staircases make you feel like you should be holding a long-stemmed cigarette holder rather than just a Negroni. As I watched the sun take its last gasp over my hometown across the water, I realized that if this spot was good enough for Pierre Casiraghi and Beatrice Borromeo to haunt before their wedding, my standards were finally being met. We moved to the terrace of La Beola, decked out in blush pink linens, for a meal that started with a bean and calamari soup that sounded like a culinary identity crisis but tasted like a revelation. The veal, roasted for hours, practically dissolves upon impact. For a deep dive into the menu and my experience, read my full review of the Grand Hotel Majestic experience here.

~ Day 8: Mountains & Hiking ~

Morning/Afternoon: Hike

No Lake Maggiore 10 day itinerary is complete without hitting the Ossola Valley. To experience the best views of Lake Maggiore, you must trade the lakeside promenade for the rugged trails of the Ossola Valley or the panoramic ridges of Mottarone. These hikes offer a transition from Mediterranean palms to high-altitude alpine wilderness, revealing the "seven lakes" from a single vantage point.

If you’re looking for a low-stakes high-reward situation, Mottarone is the obvious choice. Situated right behind Stresa, it gives you a 360-degree view of the Alps and the surrounding lakes that is almost offensive in its beauty. But for those who want to see where my actual heart (and engagement ring) resides, you head to Alpe Veglia. This isn't just a hike; it’s the place Patrick decided to propose to me at the edge of Lago delle Streghe (Witches’ Lake), though I suspect he was partly fueled by the homemade grappa we had just been served. We stumbled upon a mountain hut that was essentially just a local’s living room, where for 20 euro we were treated to a feast that would make a Michelin-starred chef weep. On the way down, we stopped at a dairy farm to buy yogurt so fresh it was practically still warm from the cow. It’s these unscripted, borderline feral moments of hospitality that define the region for me.

For the truly adventurous who want to disappear into Italy’s largest wilderness, Parco Nazionale Val Grande offers a silence so profound it’s almost deafening. I’ve spent my life navigating these peaks, and while I’ll happily share the classics, I’ve saved my most "gatekept" secret trails, for my Lago Maggiore Google Map.

Dinner: On A Borromean Island

If you’re craving a moonlit dinner on the Borromean Islands, Isola dei Pescatori is the only island that stays awake for you, provided you have a restaurant's private number on speed dial. Since the public ferries tap out at 7 PM, the only way to reach the island for a late reservation is via a restaurant’s private motorboat, which effectively turns your dinner date into a high-end Italian heist movie scene.

For our wedding rehearsal dinner, a private boat whisked our entire party away directly from the dock at Grand Hotel Majestic. There is something undeniably cinematic about skipping across the dark water toward an island glowing with lanterns, feeling like a design mogul or a former Prime Minister, both Sonia Rykiel and Silvio Berlusconi have graced these tables. Despite the "celebrity-approved" pedigree, the meals remain refreshingly authentic and won’t require you to take out a second mortgage. Most restaurants will arrange a pickup from Stresa for about €10 per person, or from further afield for a bit more. I have pinned this restaurant exclusively on my private Lago Maggiore Google Map.

~ Day 9: Morning Market Cannobio ~

Morning: Cannobio

The Cannobio Sunday Market is the definitive morning ritual on Lake Maggiore, held every Sunday from 8AM to 1PM along the town's scenic lakefront. It is widely considered the largest and most refined market in the region, offering everything from artisanal Piedmontese cheeses and cured meats to high-quality Italian leathers and linens.

You have two choices: brave the drive and fight for a parking spot with the intensity of a gladiator, or take the ferry. I always advocate for the water; pulling into Cannobio’s pastel-painted harbor by boat is the kind of cinematic entry that justifies the slightly confusing Navigazione Laghi ferry schedules. If you’re staying in Feriolo or Baveno, navigating the Sunday ferry routes can feel like trying to decode a Renaissance cipher, but it’s worth the effort for that first lakeside espresso.

Lunch: Cala Piada or a Grotto

For lunch near Cannobio, you have to choose between a no-frills roadside staple for a quick bite or a cinematic, deep-forest retreat perched over a dramatic gorge.

Patrick and I have a very specific rhythm when we’re on the northern end of the lake. If we’re in a rush back to Intra, we stop at Piada Café. It is a roadside, fiercely local sanctuary for piadinas that cost next to nothing and taste like the real Italy, perfectly folded dough and high-quality prosciutto. But, if we have the luxury of time and I’m in the mood for some serious architectural swooning, we head inland into the woods.

There is one specific "Grotto" tucked away next to an ancient stone bridge where innovative Mediterranean dishes are served on a terrace perched directly over a dramatic gorge. Between the sound of the rushing stream and the cool mountain air, it’s the most cinematic place to hide from the midday sun. I have saved the name of this hidden gorge-side grotto and its exact coordinates exclusively in my private Lago Maggiore Google Map.

Afternoon: Chill at a Lakeside Hotel or Cavandone visit

For a slow afternoon on Lake Maggiore, you have to choose between lounging at a 19th-century Belle Époque poolside or disappearing into the medieval stone silence of a car-free hilltop village. Both options offer a necessary retreat from the energy of the main lakeside piazzas, focusing instead on architectural swooning and the art of dolce far niente.

If you’re in the mood to lean into a full-blown vintage postcard fantasy, there is one specific 19th-century masterpiece on the lake’s edge that has me breathless every time I pass its pale yellow facade. It is a masterclass in Belle Époque design, and it’s where Patrick and I head when we want to pretend we’re characters in a Slim Aarons photograph, lounging by a pool where the Alps are perfectly reflected in our sunglasses. However, because this spot is a sanctuary of quiet luxury that I’d like to keep that way, I have saved the name of this historic lakeside hotel and its exact location exclusively on my private Lago Maggiore Google Map.

Alternatively, if you want to escape the "lakeside scene" entirely, head uphill to Cavandone. This tiny medieval village is a stone labyrinth of vaulted arches and hidden courtyards that feels utterly untouched by the 21st century. It’s my favorite spot for a quiet stroll to admire the cultural nuances of the Ossola stone-work, a rugged, quiet contrast to the glamour below.

Dinner: Chi Ginn

For the ultimate high-altitude escape, Chi Ginn in Miazzina is where you go when you want a dinner that feels as refined as the surrounding Alps are rugged. This restored historic gem is an architectural swoon-fest, balancing vaulted stone ceilings and ancient masonry with a modern, intimate design that makes the lakeside crowds feel like a fever dream. Patrick and I love coming here for the silence and the masterclass in local Piedmontese flavors that manage to be sophisticated without losing their mountain soul. It’s the kind of "if you know, you know" spot that perfectly captures the cultural nuances of the Ossola foothills.

~ Day 10: Lago D'Orta ~

Morning: Lago D'Orta

Orta San Giulio: Things to Do on Lake Orta

Orta San Giulio is a picturesque medieval gem located on a Lake Orta, just a 30-minute drive from Lake Maggiore, making it a perfect day trip destination. With its colorful houses, cobbled alleys, and charming cafes, this lakeside town effortlessly blends history and beauty, from the peaceful Church of San Rocco and the mysterious apparition of Saint Pio to the elegant Hotel San Rocco overlooking the shimmering Isola San Giulio. Wander the winding main street, explore quaint piazzas like Mario Motta, and climb up to the vibrant Santa Maria Assunta church for stunning panoramic views. Whether you’re soaking in the local market vibe or savoring lakeside aperitivos, Orta San Giulio captures the romantic, authentic spirit of Italy’s lake districts without the crowds—best visited early in the week for the full magic.

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Lunch: La Panetteria

For a €3 meal that outclasses most sit-down bistros, La Panetteria in Orta San Giulio is the ultimate local secret for high-quality, grab-and-go focaccia and pizza. It’s the perfect antidote to the overpriced tourist menus found along the main piazza, offering a legitimate taste of Piedmontese bakery culture for the price of a coffee. Patrick and I usually grab a couple of slices of focaccia or pizza and a glass of wine to sit right on their front steps. If you want to lean into the full romantic aesthetic, take your pizza to a bench overlooking Isola San Giulio for a picnic that feels significantly more expensive than it actually was.

Afternoon: Chill or Another Hike

On your final afternoon, you should either commit to one last vertical ascent for a panoramic farewell or surrender to the art of dolce far niente at a lakeside beach. It’s the ultimate choice between a "main character" mountain summit and the local ritual of doing absolutely nothing with a cold drink in hand.

If your legs haven't officially filed for divorce yet, take on another hike. However, if you’re like me and your Italian heritage is currently demanding a nap, find a quiet stretch of pebble beach in Feriolo or the "Riviera" of Cannero. Patrick and I usually spend our last day in the water, aggressively ignoring the reality of packing. Whether you’re sweating through your linen on a trail or nursing an aperitivo at a lakeside cafe, the goal is to let the lake’s slow rhythm finally sink in. 

Dinner: Al Camino

Al Camino in Verbania is the definitive choice for a meal that prioritizes culinary substance over the "view-tax" typical of lakeside dining. This local institution manages to balance high-end seafood and traditional Piedmontese dishes with a wood-fired pizza oven that produces perfect crusts.

Before You Go: Where to Actually Base Yourself

The biggest mistake travelers make is basing themselves in Stresa; instead, rent a car and stay in Feriolo, which is centrally located and equidistantly positioned between the lake’s best hiking, dining, and historic villas. While Stresa is the "Disney-fied" gateway for day-trippers, Feriolo offers a tranquil, authentic atmosphere that puts you exactly where you need to be to reach both the northern and southern shores with ease.

I’ve spent every summer of my life in Feriolo—it’s my family’s hometown—and even without the bias, it is geographically superior. From here, Patrick, Sibby, and I can be in the rugged Val Grande in twenty minutes or at the elegant gates of Pallanza in ten. You avoid the tourist energy of the Stresa ferry docks and the overpriced "tourist menus," opting instead for lakeside strolls where the locals actually know your name (or at least don't treat you like a walking ATM).

Getting Around: Why the Rental Car is Non-Negotiable

A rental car is non-negotiable for this Lake Maggiore 10 day itinerary. To truly experience Lake Maggiore beyond the basic ferry stops, you must have a rental car; it is the only way to reach the "gatekept" mountain grottos, trailhead starts, and hidden villages like Cavandone. While the ferries are a cinematic novelty for visiting the Borromean Islands, they are far too restrictive and slow for a 10-day itinerary that demands flexibility.

Navigating the lake by boat is a bit like trying to commute via a slow-moving postcard—fine for a morning, but a logistical nightmare for a full trip. Having a car means we can hit the Cannobio market early, grab a piadina at Piada Café for lunch, and still make it to a high-altitude dinner at Chi Ginn without checking a watch. Patrick has mastered the "Italian Merge" on the narrow lakeside roads, and while the driving is spirited, it gives you a level of freedom the public transport crowd can only dream of. Just remember: get the smallest car available. The stone arches and ancient alleys of the Verbano-Cusio-Ossola province were not designed with the modern SUV in mind.

Cultural Notes: The "Bella Figura" of Feriolo

To blend in on Lake Maggiore, respect the "Bella Figura" by trading your hiking gear for linen at dinner and embracing the slower, local pace of towns like Feriolo. Unlike the high-octane tourist hubs, life here moves to the rhythm of the riposo (the afternoon break), and the locals take immense pride in maintaining a polished, effortless aesthetic.

Lake Maggiore vs. Lake Como: The Truth

Lake Maggiore is the more authentic, diverse, and rugged alternative to Lake Como, offering a mix of alpine wilderness and Belle Époque elegance without the influencer-heavy crowds. While Como has the brand recognition, Maggiore provides more "breathability" and a local atmosphere that hasn't been entirely curated for Instagram.

If you want to spend your trip dodging TikTokers at a villa, go to Como. But if you want to experience where the Milanese, neighboring European countries, and my own family, actually spend their summers, Maggiore is the only choice. It’s more personal, more architectural, and frankly, more stylish in its quiet, gatekept confidence.