Yes, it’s a lavish and affluent Italian Riviera fishing village, but thanks to laws, it’s preserved its old time charm and nature as well. Here are the top things to do in Portofino, Italy according to Svadore.
The first time I had heard of Portofino was back in 2006, after Italy won the FIFA World Cup. Portofino, along with a few other places in Italy, was the glitz and glam place where i Campioni d’Italia, or Italian Soccer Champions, spent their post-victory days. The thought of Portofino brought up images of large yachts parked into the harbor, the piazzetta buzzing with affluent people enjoying aperitivo, and the lush green landscape of the regional park that acts as a backdrop to the colorful row of houses. Like most villages on the Italian Riviera there are plenty of things to do in Portofino, Italy. With just an afternoon at our disposal my mother and I made the most of the time we had.
How to Get to Portofino, Italy
My mother and I had rented a car and were making our way from our home on Lago Maggiore to le Cinque Terre. Our final destination was our stay at La Sosta di Ottone III in Chiesanuova, Levanto. On our way down to La Sosta, we decided to stop by several Ligurian villages including Camogli and Santa Margherita Ligure, which neighbored Portofino. We couldn’t continue towards Cinque Terre without a quick stop in Portofino. And I mean it when I say ‘quick’ because the cost of parking is crazy expensive! The best way to reach Portofino is by your own personal car, this way you can stop by all the neighboring villages on your way down. However, if you don’t have the opportunity to rent a car, there are a number of tour buses and boats that leave from Genova neighboring towns that bring you directly into the Portofino port.
Best Time to Visit Portofino, Italy
Because Portofino is a pedestrian village, there is very limited parking on the outskirts of Portofino, so make sure you come early to find a spot. There is only one parking garage just outside the town! I recommend you come during the weekday. If you come on a weekend, the traffic down this one lane road can turn into a never ending and absurdly long drive, like from New York to Montauk. The best time of year to visit Portofino is of course summer! There are endless number of summer activities available including hiking and exploring the Portofino Regional Natural Park (Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino) and visiting beaches and swimming in the Mediterranean. But fall and spring are just as beautiful and less packed with tourists.
Things to Do in Portofino, Italy
1. Piazzetta
The first thing you’ll walk into is the center of town, the piazzetta. It’s like Amalfi’s Piazza del Duomo. It’s the meeting point for all, particularly during aperitivo, or happy hour. Restaurants border every angle of the port and harbor here. Yachts dock, international jet-setter come out to wine and dine in the harbor overlooking the bay and the characteristic and colorful Italian Riviera houses. If you have the chance, during aperitivo order a glass of Giancu de Purtufuni, a specialty wine only available in this area that combines grape’s from nearby territories.
Did you know that the locals of Portofino were at one time labeled as delfini, or dolphins by the Greeks and Romans? The locals from the old fishermen village were so nautically successful at sea that they were given this name.
2. Wander the Harbor and Streets
Walk aimlessly through the maze-like back streets of Portofino and through the waterfront harbor. While walking pay close attention to the architecture and old fishermen houses. Back in 1925 when Portofino was first discovered by Italians and foreigners, people were purchasing these characteristic fishermen houses around the port and turning them into lavish villas. To preserve Portofino’s charm and keep it from being destroyed, a law was passed in 1935 that prohibited any major alterations from happening to these residences. So if you want to thank anyone for the charming fishing village you still see today, you can thank Ettore Bocciardo! In addition to this law, unlike its counterparts Monaco and St. Tropez, you will not see nightclubs or any sort of entertainment in Portofino unless it’s a municipal event. This is done purposefully to keep peace and quiet for the locals (although that doesn’t stop people from having their extravagant parties in their homes and on their yachts!).
3. Visit the Shops on Via Roma and Search for Local Boutique Ateliers
Because of the high-class clientele that Portofino attracts, unfortunately Via Roma, the main street, is rich in mainstream stores like Louis Vuitton, Dolce Gabbana, Tom Ford etc. But if you look hard enough, you’re still lucky enough to find a few local boutique ateliers. These are fleeting given the high prices and demand for these storefronts in Portofino, but on the outskirts of the main street a few still exist. Their main differentiator is their handmade bobbin lace garments, a very famous and distinct clothing sold only in certain parts of Italy like the Amalfi coast. As a kid, bobbin lace and linen clothing was much more affordable then it is today and my mom used to dress me in it from head to toe when we’d go on our summer vacations in Italy. Today, the clothing is unfortunately over-priced in order for these stores to pay the rent necessary to stay open. I still recommend you splurge on a unique piece though if you’re in the mood, they are definitely something you don’t see and can’t buy just anywhere!
4. Church of San Giorgio and Views
Portofino’s patron saint in San Giorgio. The yellow and white granite church located in the upper corner and looking down on Portofino is dedicated to San Giorgio. It’s a hike to get up there, but it’s worth it. If not for Chiesa di San Giorgio, do it for the views of Portofino below. Chiesa di San Giorgio was constructed in the 12th century and inside you can find relics brought back from sailors after the Crusades. It is simple yet ornate inside and actually a stunning church to behold in my opinion! On one side of the Church of San Giorgio, you can walk around the back to see the breathtaking parvis, or churchyard, overlooking the Mediterranean. It is clear that the locals take very good care of the Church of San Giorgio. On the other side of the Church is the raw untainted beauty and cliffs of the Mediterranean gripping along the side of the Church. It’s stunning and a can’t miss!
5. Castello Brown, Brown Castle
For those who want to continue on and up the path, you can reach Castello Brown, a castle with a beautiful hanging-garden, a lighthouse, and a stunning panoramic cafe and terrace where you can sit and enjoy the view of Portofino.
6. Portofino Natural Regional Park
Because we were short on time and this was just a stop along the way to La Sosta di Ottone III in le Cinque Terre, spending an entire day hiking here was unfortunately not an option. It will have to be for next time when I come and visit with Pat. But if you do get the opportunity to stay in this area longer, you have to at least hike one of Portofino Natural Regional Park’s stunning trails.
Portofino has an enormous network of trails that stretch from Camogli to Portofino. From hiking to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, to Camogli, Punta Chiappa, and more. You could spend days hiking it’s natural beauty among a green oasis with lush pine trees and olive groves alongside the Mediterranean Sea. It’s definitely one of the most stunning parks and hikes you’ll be on in Italy. It’s on my list for next time! Parco Portofino has more info on the trails and there difficulties.
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