If you’ve followed my journey through Florence Off the Beaten Path, you know that I am obsessed with the "introverted" side of the city. On my most recent stay at Palazzo Portinari Salviati, I traveled deeper by seeking out the historic Florence wine windows (buchette del vino), tiny, arched portals carved into Renaissance palaces that allow you to order a drink directly through the wall.
Tucked into the stone facades of Renaissance palazzi are tiny, arched openings known as buchette del vino, the secret wine windows of Florence. These are not Instagram props; they are living relics of a time when the Florentine elite would serve wine while bypassing taxes and avoiding the plague.
At every stop Patrick would ask: “Sveva, are we stopping for wine again?” “It’s not just wine, Patrick,” I'd say, pressing a buzzer on a wall. “It’s history.”
And it is. But before you wander aimlessly hoping a hand will shove alcohol at you, let’s get real about the logistics. Here is the Tea (or rather, the Chianti): Not all wine windows are created equal. TikTok has turned the main ones into a circus. Some are tourist traps serving bad wine in plastic cups (a cardinal sin), while others are hidden gems where you can actually hear yourself think.
What are the Florence Wine Windows? (The OG Social-Distancing)
The Florence wine windows (known locally as buchette del vino or "little holes for wine") are tiny, arched windows built into the facades of noble palaces that allow merchants to sell wine directly to the street. They were originally created in the 16th century for aristocratic families (like the Antinoris and Frescobaldis) to sell surplus wine from their country estates directly to the public, bypassing taxes and the middleman.
Later, they became known as "plague windows." During the Italian Plague of 1630 (remind you of Covid?), they were used for social distancing without exposing servants to the infected masses on the streets.
Italians, being Italians, refused to let a little thing like the Black Death stop them from enjoying a glass of Sangiovese. To avoid touching contaminated coins, sellers would ask customers to drop money onto a metal tray soaked in vinegar. It was the 17th-century equivalent of contactless payment.
The Associazione Buchette del Vino (yes, there is an official cultural body that catalogs them!) has identified over 150 of these portals. Fast forward to today, and savvy business owners at places like Babae and Cantina De’ Pucci have pried open the shutters, reviving a 400-year-old tradition. But this time, you don't need the vinegar-soaked coins.
What are wine windows that specific shape?
They were designed to be just large enough to fit a fiasco, the classic straw-bottomed glass flask. They were also built at a specific height: convenient for a person walking or even sitting on a horse. (Think of it as the Renaissance drive-thru).
How to Order From a Wine Window
Finding an active Florence wine window is a true scavenger hunt. While there are over 150 buchette in the city, only a handful are active today.
- The Active Window: Look for a small wooden door that is open, a menu tacked to the stone, or a line of people holding wine glasses on the sidewalk.
- The Retired Window: These are my favorite for the introverted traveler. I’ve found them converted into mailboxes, doorbells, or even decorative altars. Finding these is the "quiet" part of the hunt.
The Ritual:
- Find the Window: Look for the small wooden door or a bell next to an archway about the size of a wine flask.
- The Tap: If the window is closed, but it's during restaurant hours, a light knock usually does the trick. If there's a bell or buzzer, ring the buzzer or literal brass bell. Ring it only once.
- The Hand: A hand will appear—looking like "Thing" from The Addams Family. It's weird. Embrace it.
- Order: “Un bicchiere di rosso, per favore.” (A glass of red, please). Most spots also do Aperol Spritzes now because... well, tourists.
- Pay: Cost is usually €5–€8 per glass. Most windows take Apple Pay and credit cards. Just tap the machine through the window.
- Receive: The hand returns with your drink.
- Sip and Stroll: Or, if you’re us, find a curb to park the stroller and pretend you’re at an exclusive sidewalk cafe.
Note on Hours: These windows are attached to working kitchens or wine bars, so they follow standard shop hours (usually noon to 10 PM). Don't expect a 2 AM pour.
Where to Find the Best ACTIVE Wine Windows
I’ve vetted the working ones based on the Svadore Criteria:
- The Glass Snob Test (real glass vs. plastic)
- The Stroller Test (can I stand here without getting run over?).
To make your journey easier, I’ve pinned all the working windows, plus the best gelato and artisan shops, on my Florence Google Map. It’s the exact directory I use on my trips. Here are a few I spotlight to give you a taste:
~ The Icon/Most Popular ~
1. Babae (Via di Santo Spirit)
Located in the Oltrarno district, this was the first to revive the tradition in 2019. Located in the Santo Spirito neighborhood, it is the perfect stop after visiting the artisan boutiques of the Oltrarno.
- Glass test: Real glass
- Stroller test: Not recommended. It's relatively quiet, but the line is always mobbed.
Since you are already in the Oltrarno, grab your wine here and then walk 5 minutes to Via Santa Monaca to take a vintage film strip in one of the city's few remaining Fotoautomatica booths. (I wrote a whole guide on Where to Find Vintage Photo Booths in Florence, it’s the best €2 souvenir you’ll buy).
~ The Quiet Neighbor ~
2. Fiaschetteria Fantappiè (Via di Santo Spirit)
Right around the corner from Babae is the quieter Fiaschetteria.
- Glass test: Real glass
- Stroller test: Recommended. There is breathing room here. Patrick could park the stroller while we sipped our wine on the cobblestones. This is the spot for parents who need a break.
My Secret Wine Bar in a Bookstore
If you’ve managed to snag a glass of Chianti from a window but find the streets a bit too loud to actually enjoy it, head over to Todo Modo. Inside is Uqbar, a sun-drenched wine bar and bookstore that is my absolute favorite 'hush-hush' sanctuary. It’s actually one of my 4 best bookstores in Florence for introverts, the kind of place where you can hide with a glass of natural wine and finally hear yourself think.
~ The Convenient Classic ~
3. Cantina de' Pucci (Via de' Pucci)
If you’re doing the tourist rounds near the Duomo, perhaps following my 2-Day Florence Itinerary, this is your respite. This window is built into a magnificent palace. It’s a high-end experience that feels remarkably grounded. I recommend grabbing a glass here just before sunset when the stone walls begin to glow.
- Glass test: Real glass
- Stroller test: Not recommended. It's near the tourist attractions so you will get lost in a stampede of people.
~ The Photogenic Trap ~
4. Osteria delle Belle Donne (Via delle Belle Donne)
The name translates to "Beautiful Women," and they dress the window with fresh flowers. It is stunning for photos, but...
- Glass test: They have been known to serve in plastic cups.
- Stroller test: Not recommended. This street is incredibly narrow with zero sidewalk. You are essentially standing in the road. With a stroller, you are a traffic hazard.
~ The Toddler Bribe ~
5. Vivoli (Via Isola delle Stinche)
Yes, that Vivoli. Famous for their gelato, they also use their window to serve cups of gelato and coffee.
Via Maggio is the street of antique dealers and aristocrat palaces. This window matches the quiet, sophisticated rhythm of the "other side" of the Arno. It’s where I went after my visit to the vintage Fotoautomatica booths.
Interactive Florence Wine Window Map
Here is the truth: Wine is just the beginning. During my research, I discovered Florence wine windows that don't just do Chianti. I found:
- The "Morning Window" that serves the best cappuccino in the city
- The "Negroni Hole" tucked into a residential wall
- The "Gourmet Window" serving mini-sandwiches through the stone
- Retired Windows: I’ve also mapped the non-active windows that have been converted into quirky things, look for the one that is now a mailbox, the one turned into a religious shrine, and the ones covered in street art.
- and more...
I’m gatekeeping these locations for my community. IIf you want to find the non-wine windows, the scavenger hunt of "retired" windows, and the most stroller-safe routes through the Oltrarno labyrinth, you can download my Interactive Florence Google Map. It includes 140+ pinned locations of the artisan workshops and hidden gems mentioned in my Florence Off The Beaten Path Guide.
Unlock the Windows I Didn't List
🥪 The "Gourmet Window" (Seafood & Truffle Sandwiches)
☕ The "Morning Window" (Best Cappuccino in town)
🍹 The "Negroni Hole" (Hidden in a residential wall)
🧸 All "Stroller-Safe" Tags
Florence wine windows are to Florence what the High Line is to New York or the Coulée Vert is to Paris, a creative reuse of history that reminds us that even in a city of stone, there is always a way for life (and wine) to flow through.
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• White Truffle Season in Florence: Salotto Portinari Review
