The ’21st arrondissement of Paris’ as Jean Cocteau described Megève. Where the in-crowd has been going since the 1920s. The French summer by the Riviera or on the West Coast of France and winter in Megève. Megève was one of the first ski resorts in France, but is more known for being a town that takes its food very seriously. Everything in Megève revolves around chalet-life and food. You’ll notice that almost every restaurant and/or stay has the word Ferme, or farm, in it. That’s because Megève originally started off as a modest farming village. Once it was discovered by the Rotschild’s however…it took off. Today, as you wander the streets there is plenty to do in Megève. There is a sense of old-fashion charm with narrow streets, small squares, trendy boutiques, quality antique shops, crowded bistros, dozens of boutique hotels, Michelin-starred restaurants, and plenty of spa and wellness centers. At night, you can choose to dance to the beat of some of the coolest discos in the Savoie region or wander the romantic streets listening to the jingle of bells and the clip-clop of horses – it’s your choice.

But what about the skiing? Skiing here is just for pleasure. No one takes it too seriously. It’s about skiing the over 150 slopes or 445 km of pistes, which on most days have plenty of room, with déjeuner, or lunch, being the only thing on people’s minds. Enjoy nature with a hike or snowshoe up Mont d’Arbois, wander around the storybook village, and eat well, this is what to do in Megève.

FAQs:

Which is better Chamonix or Megève?

There is no clear answer here. The two are vastly different in my mind. Chamonix is where you go if you like off-piste skiing and a large village in the French Alps with plenty of international tourism. Finding more local French experiences is not as easy in Chamonix. When you walk down the street, you will hear more English than French. Megève on the other hand is primarily known among local French people, not many tourists, making it more of a cultural immersion and different experience. The skiing is intermediate and for those looking to make them ost of on-piste. The food is also unparalleled, and while you can’t go wrong anywhere in France, Megève stands out from Chamonix.

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~ Arrival ~

1. Check-In: Les Fermes de Marie

2. Dinner: La Ferme de mon Père

We hadn’t planned this one dinner spot, but Patrick perused the Google reviews and had a good feeling about it and I approved the vibe. Dinner was at La Ferme de mon Père, or My Father’s Farm. Not to be confused with Les Fermes de Marie, which is Maries’ Farms and where we would be staying the next few days.

Before making our way downstairs into the subterranean cave-like restaurant for dinner, we spent some time upstairs at the bar lounge, which is also bar of the Zannier Hotel Chalet within which the restaurant resides. We took a seat on the couch near the fireplace and ordered ourselves 2 cocktails. I had the dark and snowy – HA!

If you’re looking for traditional, classic French recipes, then La Ferme de mon Père isn’t for you. The restaurant goes very off-piste so to speak. For dinner, we had artichoke dip as an appetizer and a pumpkin soup. Pat had veal blanquette as his main, and I had the chicken tajine with lemon and coriander. Every bite we had was a new flavor we had never tasted before. Lastly came dessert…or as Patrick calls it “the best lava cake/soufflé” he’s ever had. Patrick has had a lot of chocolate lava cakes over the years, so to say that is high praise. We ended the night with a bit of Génépi, a traditional French herbal liqueur, as a digestivo (which Pat and I have had on multiple occasions both in a mountain hut pre-getting engaged and when in Valle D’Aosta with Ski Itineraries).

>> READ FULL ARTICLE ON OUR EXPERIENCE AT LA FERME DE MON PÈRE HERE >>

~ Day 1 ~

1. Breakfast: Croix de Savoie & Cappuccino by Le Glapet River

The next morning we woke up on the later end. Jetlag kicked in hard for some reason. Must be the age! It wasn’t a particularly cold or clear day, there was a lot of wind and low visibility so we decided not to ski. Instead, we explored Megève town. We were going to be in France for 10 days anyway, we had plenty of time to ski. What was the rush! We started the morning with a cappuccino by the Megève river, Le Glapet, followed by a local pastry called Croix de Savoie, a croissant style pastry in the shape of a cross and sprinkled with sugar inspired by the Savoyard coat of arms – red with a white cross on it.

2. Morning: Explore Megève Town

The farm village of Megève first came on the map in 1911 when it became a stop for the Tour de France. By the 1920s Megève was discovered by the Rothschild’s who opened the first purpose-built French ski resort in France, right at the foot of the Mont d’Arbois mountain. It was opened at the same time as Chamonix to compete with Switzerland’s glitzy St. Moritz. Once the Rothschilds establish themselves, you know the rest follow. By the 1950s, influential and A-list celebs like Audrey Hepburn, Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardo, and Johnny Hallyday, joined in on making Megève a hotspot by purchasing chalets. Megève became so well-known among high-society that even French poet and playwright Jean Cocteau (who wrote pieces like Beauty and the Beast) nicknamed the resort ‘the 21st century arrondissement of Paris.’

Today it is known for it’s beautiful hotels and chalets, gourmet food scene, shopping, art galleries, and picture perfect setting in the mountains. When you wander around, it feels like something straight out of a children’s story book. Horse-drawn carriages, cobblestone footpaths, grandiose forests, and iconic chalets.

You know the famous ski pants in the shape of a spindle called fuseau? They were invented in Megève, by Armand Aallard in 1930, at the request of ski medalist Émile Allais. Today, the original store AAllard is still in the town square, Place de l’Eglise. After Émile won the Alpine world ski championship wearing the fuseau pants, not once but 3 times, very quickly the pants became a hot commodity in French and European ski schools. Eventually in the 1970s, the pants made their way from the ski slopes to the fashion runway, cementing the pants as a staple both on-and-off piste.

3. Lunch: La Petite Crêperie

For lunch, we wanted something simple, small, and easy. Something that wouldn’t break the bank in an otherwise foodie town filled with Michelin-starred restaurants, where our cappuccino could cost us up to 5-6 euro. We found a small crêperie tucked away in the center of Megève town called La Petite Crêperie. We each got a galette, or savory crêpe. The place was in fact, very petite. With just a few tables, you do feel a bit elbow to elbow with others, but it adds to the charm. The little wooden shack has alpine tools and memorabilia hanging from the ceiling giving it a genuine and cozy alpine feel, perfect for a laidback and quick lunch.

Another crêperie I didn’t try, but that was recommended by the Sibuet’s was Chez Olivia Crêpe.

4. Afternoon: Hike Mont D’Arbois via Chemin du Calvaire

Chemin du Calvaire, or Calvary Trail, is a slightly inclined walk that leads up to the plateau of Mont d’Arbois. Don’t think of it as a hike. It’s more aptly a “cultural uphill stroll.” Chemin Calvaire is open all seasons and can be walked or snowshoed with or without strollers. It’s the perfect exercise for people looking for an alternative to skiing in Megève. What makes Chemin Calvaire unique is the fact that it’s a “Sacred Mountain” and listed as a European Sacred Mount and Historic Monument. As you walk and wind up the hill, you will encounter about 15 chapels and oratories built from the 1840s to 1878 depicting the Calvary, or stations of the Cross or Christ’s Passion. This chemin was once an important place for pilgrimage. It even got the nickname “Savoy Jerusalem.” The Chemin Calvaire is not difficult. It’s about a 1 km (.6 mi) hike with a steeper 60 meter (196 ft) ascent that can be done round-trip in about an hour.

I really wanted to have dinner or aperitif at Le Refuge du Calvaire, which is beautifully located on the Chemin Calvaire. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed the day we were visiting. It is known as one of the best dining experiences in Megève and if you go at the right time, the view of the Arly Valley is splendid as well.

5. Aperitif: Under Rochebrune Cablecar at La Ferme du Golf

Built in 1933, the old school and vibrant red Mont D’Arbois cablecar, which was the first cable car in France dedicated to skiing, signals the end of Chemin du Calvaire and your arrival at the plateau de Mont D’Arbois. Take a seat on the terrace at hotel La Ferme du Golf located right underneath the cablecar, order a Megève beer such as La Brasserie du Mont Blanc or an iconic La Megevanne—which also has the iconic Megève cablecar on the logo—and watch it go back and forth between Rochebrune and Mont D’Arbois. See the cablecar on both the beer bottle and the video above?

6. Dinner: Le Refuge

Not to be confused with Le Refuge du Calvaire, the restaurant simply called “Le Refuge” is a refuge, or wooden Alpine house, located a 12 minute drive from Megève town. Since we’d be spending every night eating in Megève town, we figured we try a place outside the main area as well. It is located right behind Rochebrune mountain up a winding road. It is a dark and isolated restaurant, which makes it perfect for a romantic evening for dinner and some stargazing. The isolation allows them to focus on the nature of the mountains around them.

Unlike the first night, Le Refuge specializes in authentic and traditional Savoyard cuisine. The setting is chic, rustic and warm. As a starter we ordered the escargot. For our main we ordered a rack of lamb roasted on a spit with potatoes to share and a creamy, cheesy polenta. Lastly for dessert, the pomme tartin, or apple tart, was sliced so thin, I couldn’t count how many layers there were – maybe 16? It literally melted in our math. Delicieux!

~ Day 2 ~

1. Morning: Ski Mont D’Arbois

At the top of the list of things to do in Megève is obviously ski. We spent our first day skiing in Megève getting our grounding on the area. The plan was to tackle the Rochebrune side today. We made our way up a little way, but accidentally ended back all the way down at the Mont D’Arbois cablecar. We decided it was fate for us not to do the Rochebrune side that day so continued to the Mont D’Arbois side instead. We ended up making our way up in elevation, all the way to the top of Mont Joly. The pistes were groomed and intermediate, so fairly easy to ski. They weren’t too busy either, which was a nice change up from other more popular ski resorts in the area.

Map of Skiing Day 1 below:

2. Lunch: Sous Le Freddy

For lunch, we stopped by a small and hidden refuge that is not easy to spot or easy to get to. It’s located on a black trail that eventually turns into green if you want, but it does start on a black trail. This is nice because it slims down the crowds significantly. I knew about it because I had read it was a favorite of the owner of our hotel Les Fermes de Marie. And since I have an understanding of their taste and sense of style, I knew this was a can’t miss spot for me. You don’t get to “choose” your food here. You eat, what they serve, and what they serve are some of the most amazing potato fritters you’ll ever have, with a hefty amount of local cheese, bread, charcuterie and a salad. And while it may not sound like a lot, trust me—it’s a lot of food. If you’re still hungry order their dessert like the amazing tarte au chocolat drizzled in what tasted like a cream syrup. There are limited outdoor seats, but if you can snag one the views are incredible. They even have lounge chairs if you’re looking to take a quick nap before hitting the slopes again. Parfait…

3. Après Ski: La Folie Douce

You haven’t experienced the Savoie region until you’ve done après ski in the mountains at La Folie Douce. The concept is definitely newer on the scene. Locals aren’t a fan of the ruckus and type of crowd it’s brought around since Megève is more of an old school, classy town. However, I have to say, I thoroughly enjoyed the scene at La Folie Douce. First off, it’s in the mountains, so you don’t hear any of the music and dancing in town. Secondly, it ends as soon as the mountain shuts down around 4PM, so the party ends early, keeping everyone in check. There are dancers and DJs getting the crowd amped up, smoke guns, champagne flutes and sparklers at every corner. It’s a party at a reasonable time of day, and a fun one. Good music, a couple of very expensive drinks (which makes it hard to drink much), and a good time. I recommend it for all ages, you can’t go wrong. Loosen those ski boots and get up on a table!

When the clock strikes 4PM, La Folie Douce closes and it’s time to make your way back down to Megève town. We snapped on our skis and went down not realizing how warm it was as we got lower in elevation. It went from snow everywhere to a single snow trail surrounded by green pastures. I couldn’t stop laughing! It was the definition of spring skiing. Little did we know we would get dumped on the next day so this Spring skiing was short lived.

4. Evening: Wellness Center

Relaxation at Les Fermes de Marie is inevitable. Post-skiing Les Fermes de Marie has one of the most elaborate wellness spas I’ve ever seen at a hotel and it’s all focused on hydrotherapy, a word for using water to heal in various ways. We start with a quick outdoor hot tub to relax our tense ski muscles and then the true wellness practice begins. It begins with a Turkish Hammam, or steam room, to open up our pores. Followed by a few minutes in the sauna. Once we’ve opened our pores and elevated our heart rate, it’s time for an ice cold bucket to jolt us back to life. We follow that with a warm plunge in a Japanese hot wooden soaking tub followed by a cold plunge in a Japanese cold wooden soaking tub. The cold water stimulates the body and boosts oxygen use in the cells. Hot water dilates blood vessels, which improves blood circulation, speeds the elimination of toxins, and transports more oxygen to the brain. In between some of these cycles, we use either the adult and kid-friendly pools for some lap swimming. End it with some recovery time in the “relaxation” room that features Turkish zavarka herbal teas.

5. Dinner: Les Fermes de Marie

The first night it’s clear we are going to gourmandize at a level equal to the skiing. We ate at Les Fermes de Marie. The dining area is rustic and old world with an enchanting roaring fireplace, brass ornaments and wood paneling along with set tables. We started off with some paté followed by the iconic truffle pasta shells or coquillettes, sauget ham, and beaufort cream—a favorite of the Sibuet’s and a staple on the menu—and a pot pie of sorts. The dessert is always buffet style with a myriad of options to choose from. Indulgence is the word here. Your on vacation after all. No one asks if the crème caramel, apple tart, or chocolate soufflés are fat-free. We accompany dinner with a bottle of Sibuet’s own wine, they own a vineyard in Ménerbes where they produce their own family wine.

The menu at Les Fermes de Marie is never the same since it’s based on seasonal local ingredients. There’s no signing of bills either as the property offers demi-pension for just 90euros per person at any of the properties 5 restaurants including Les Fermes de Marie’s very own Le Restaurant Traditionnel, Le Relais in Hotel Mont Blanc, Le Beef Lodge in Hotel Lodge Park, L’Alpage (summer only), and their most recent addition to the list, Le Vieux Megève. And if you like the food that much, don’t forget to stop by their boutique marché called l’Épicerie des Fermes. Located in town, here you can purchase pre-made food like the coquillettes truffle pasta!

6. Optional: Go Out

At this point, this is optional and completely dependent on your mood, how tired you are from the days activities, and how late you want to stay out. But if you still have some energy in you, a great thing to do in Megève is check out some of the nightlife scene. While I didn’t go to any of these during my time in Megève (I partied at La Folie Douce during the day and was too relaxed to go after my lavish dinners every night), these are three very diverse night life scenese that I had bookmarked just in case:

~ Day 3 ~

1. Breakfast: Les Fermes de Marie

The next morning we awake under our fluffy duvet and plump pillows and head down to breakfast. The snow was pounding outside. We didn’t realize it would turn from Spring skiing and barely any snow at the base to 1.5 feet of power in one day. We couldn’t wait to get out on the slopes. Breakfast, or petite déjeuner, had to be substantial to keep us powering through those slopes. Petit déjeuner is served in the dining room at Les Fermes de Marie, but again it feels like you’re at home. We breakfast in ski clothes. We walk into the communal kitchen where a chef cooks us custom omelets and crêpes for the day. We also grab a homemade yogurt with fruit for the muesli and a mini pain au chocolat.

Les Fermes de Marie has a private ski shop with rental equipment and private instructors and offers a shuttle service that drops you off literally in the center of town at the cablecar Télécabine Le Chamois. They have a permit that allows them to drive into the city center, which not many are allowed to have. Très VIP!

2. Morning: Ski Mont D’Arbois

Ironically, the French do not ski in powder so we had all the slopes to ourself – as you can see from the videos above. There wasn’t a soul on the slopes. I heard that was not the case in Chamonix where all the tourists rushed to the slopes and it was a mob. But because Megève is more frequented by the French, it wasn’t packed. The French prefer groomed trails that are easy and clear of any debris. Powder for them was not fun. This meant more space for me and Pat on the slopes. In fact, we were some of the only people skiing that day! The snow kept pounding and pounding. At first, it scared me a bit because visibility was close to none. But as the morning went on, the snow lightened, yet kept falling, making for an epic day of skiing. We just went up and down, up and down, floating and jumping on the 1.5 feet of fresh snow into the bowl of Evasion Mont-Blanc. There wasn’t a trail we didn’t touch. It was too fun. We couldn’t stop.

Map of Skiing Day 2 below:

3. Lunch: La Cabane à Léo

But of course, 2PM rolled around and our legs were giving out. Sure, powder is super fun (for some like us), but it takes a toll on the legs since the powder is so heavy. It was time to replenish all those lost calories on the way down to Saint-Gervais ski area. All of a sudden a super furry and cute looking puppy was running along our ski slope. When we got closer to him, he jolted up a small hill into this small restaurant perched. I guess this was a sign, the alpine puppy was all the advertisement we needed. We popped off our skis and followed him in. Who could resist his cuteness?

La Cabane à Léo was simple inside with a nice view of a télécabine, or lift. We ordered some Savoyard specialties to increase that calorie intake. I had a croute savoyard, a glorious bubbling dish of heaven with layers of cheese, bread, speck, and white wine melted together and heated to roughly the temperature of lava. Pat had a tartiflette, a traditional mountain dish among ski stations, made with potatoes, bacon, white wine and cream then baked with a slab of Reblochon cheese on top. Which by the way, I later learned that Reblochon cheese is not available for sale in the US...it is illegal. This made me super annoyed because it was by far my #1 favorite cheese in the entire Savoie region. The word tartiflette comes from the old savoyard word for potatoes. It was invented in the 70s to sell more Reblochon cheese.

The owner of the restaurant’s adorable and docile mountain puppy just sat by the door watching us eat our lunch as he occasionally dozed off to sleep or went outside for a breathe of fresh air.

4. Spa Treatment: Les Fermes de Marie

We made our way back to our Les Fermes de Marie sanctuary exhausted and uber content. As a treat for all the hard work we put in that day, we treated ourselves to a spa service at the Les Fermes de Marie‘s spa center, Pure Altitude. Patrick got a sports massage and I received an oxygen bowl facial. If you’ve got more in you, like Pat and I did, we later immersed ourselves in the steamy bubbling outdoor hot tub while the icy air cooled our faces. Afterward, when I looked in the mirror, I saw some “Frenchness” in me–skin aglow, face relaxed, eyes clear–and only a few days after our arrival.

5. Aperitif: Les Fermes de Marie

While the allure of Megève town is enticing, most days we head back to Les Fermes de Marie after skiing and stay there, rather than trek to local cafes and bars. The ambiance at the property cannot be found anywhere else in town. Each afternoon, tea, homemade cookies and sweets await guests. For Pat and I, a before dinner tradition becomes the sipping of a chilled negroni or delicious Espresso martini. Some people read, while others wile away the cocktail hour with chess and various boardgames. It feels as if we are at home. We sit in front of the crackling fire and nibble on canapés.

6. Dinner: Le Relais Mont-Blanc

Tonight we dine in the center of Megève town at the fine-dining establishment Le Relais Mont-Blanc located inside Hôtel Mont-Blanc Megève. The atmosphere is super cozy. They managed to keep the décor of the old chalet with a modern twist. A must in Megève. The menu is varied but rooted in the identity of the Savoie region. For starters we ordered a fricasse of mushrooms in wine sauce. I had to order mushrooms when in Europe…those mountain mushrooms just hit different. American mushrooms got nothing on these. Alongside some smoked féra (a type of fish found in the nearby lakes) with potatoes – superbe.

As a main, Patrick got a tender beef cheek that was braised for 8 hours in Mondeuse d’Arbin wine. It was so tender that it melted in your mouth upon impact. The sauce it came with was incroyable. I, on the other hand, got the half roasted chicken with it’s own juices. The portions were generous and the service attentive and impeccable, even during peak dining hours. The service is distinguished, but not pompous. It’s perfectly balanced.

Dessert was à la carte once again, so we couldn’t skimp out right? Cannoli, apple tart, and chocolate pie…which would you have ordered? We had a taste of all 3.

~ Day 4 ~

1. Breakfast: Les Fermes de Marie

Breakfast is, once again, at the delicious all you can eat Les Fermes de Marie. This morning we make ourselves a hard-boiled egg using the coolest contraption I’ve ever seen, some fresh pastries (mini croissants and pain au chocolat), smoked salmon, and some freshly made waffles.

2. Morning: Ski Rochebrune

For our last day skiing in Megève, we skied the Rochebrune side of the mountain. We never made it to the third mountain Le Jaillet on the other side of Megève town, but I heard it wasn’t as nice or expansive and didn’t have as much snow, so we didn’t miss out on much. We had made it down to Saint-Gervais, but not up to the other side, again, where there really is just one or two slopes, but still…if you know me, I want to see it all! Next time.

What I loved about Megève more than any other mountain I’ve experienced or been at was the snow shoeing and pedestrian activities. This isn’t a mountain just for skiers, there is something to do in Megève for everyone. We were literally at the top of Rochebrune, about to go to Alpage de Pré Rosset for lunch, and I look to my right and I see people hiking with ski poles up the mountain. See video above for evidence. The same height that I just did via ski lift. It’s insane! There truly is something for everyone here. Even if you’re not a skier. In fact, many women push their baby strollers up the mountain too and do it as physical activity. Not a bad idea if I’m ever on maternity leave…an easy way to lose weight that’s for sure. I just get nervous about going back down with!

3. Lunch: Alpage de Pré Rosset

Our final déjeuner, or lunch, in Megève is sadly at l’Alpage de Pré Rosset. Oh the beautiful sight to behold from here is seriously idyllic. Like something out of a fabulous vintage movie. It has me swooning at first sight. At 1893 meters, or 6,200 feet, is an authentic 1853 farmhouse. Again, Megève used to be a farming village so a lot of its roots and history still remain. The terrace is my favorite spot here. But if it’s snowing hard, you can head on inside, where they will offer you slippers to wear near the wood burning stove.

The food here is traditional Savoyard cuisine, so think the tartiflette from the other day and plenty of fondue and cheese platters. The specialty is also the beef directly from their own farm nearby. That being said, for lunch, Patrick of course ordered the rôti de beouf confit with purée pomme de terre i.e. a roast beef confit with mashed tomatoes. I honestly was still full from breakfast, so got a cheese platter with plenty of bread and a side salad. I can never have enough cheese! Especially of the Reblochon…😍 For dessert, we ordered a slice of the homemade blueberry cake with a caffè savoyard as a digestif. A caffè savoyard is essentially an espresso with fruit brandy. It’s usually served in a grole—an unusual wooden pot that has several carved sprouts so that you can pass it around and everyone can drink from it.

Stuffed, tired, and cooked from the sun, we slathered on some extra sunscreen and sat in the lounge chairs nearby to take a little mid-day nap. Like I said, the views here are incredible. It’s worth the stop just for that.

4. Adieu: Leave for Chamonix

We were actually really sad to be leaving Megève. There was still so much to do and see. But, we were on to the next big thing…Chamonix. So we couldn’t complain. Before leaving we stopped by a cheese store to grab some aperitif meats and cheeses for that night. Of course, I bought my favorite Savoie Reblochon cheese and some fresh prosciutto to accompany from La Crémerie de Megève. There were these cute “Make your own Genepi” kits where you would steep the herbs yourself and make the alcohol. I was debated purchasing it, but ended up just buying a small bottle of pre-made Genepi. A bit of a nod to how we started this trip on the first night we were in Megève, at La Ferme de mon Père. A Genepi to start the trip and end the trip.

~ 4 Day Megève Winter Guide Map ~

~ Where & What to Eat in Megève ~

~ How to Get Around Megève ~

If you’re just staying in town, it’s super small so you don’t need a car or anything. The lifts will take you wherever you need to go. But if you do want to visit the neighboring mountains and ski resorts or have the flexibility to drive to a restaurant outside of town, I would recommend a rental car.

~ Important Things to Keep In Mind ~

>> Next: Best Skiing in the Alps: Italy, France, Switzerland in 3 Days