My parents and grandparents are from Milano and Lago Maggiore, and I myself visit the country at least once a year. As an Italian-American who has spent over 30 years visiting Italy (one could say basically a resident) , I know the culture, language, nuances, and true local experiences of the country. That's why I'm the perfect person to shed light on local places that most travelers wouldn't consider when visiting Italy. Places like the Aeolian island of Salina in Sicily...and more specifically in this case—the village of Pollara.
Pollara is a small fishing village, located in the Municipality of Malfa on the Aeolian Island of Salina. It has, by far, one of my favorite views in all of Sicily. The village is nestled inside an ancient volcanic crater. It is surrounded by a vast natural crown formed by the sliding into the sea of half of the ancient crater of the Salina volcano.
Among Italians, the village of Pollara is well-known because of the famous old school Italian movie, Il Postino, or The Mailman. It's an Italian love story of a local mailman who cycles out to a remote house each day to deliver letters to an exiled Chilean poet. It is set on the amazing backdrop of Pollara beach. But aside from Italians, foreigners aren't aware of this hidden beauty of a village...
But there's more to Pollara than just being the famous backdrop of a movie. Pollara is also renowned for it's capers, black-sand beach, honeycombed fishermen's huts and storerooms dug into the soft tuff rock, jaw-dropping views, and some of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. It may be a small village, but there are plenty of slow-paced and dolce vita experiences to partake in here to help you experience the true Italian and Sicilian way of life.
1. Viewpoint: Punto Panoramico Semaforo di Pollara
Patrick and I rented an electric Vespa scooter from our hotel for 2 days and made our way to Pollara. Along the way, we stopped by Punto Panoramico Semaforo di Pollara lighthouse. This panoramic viewpoint is where you can admire one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. It overlooks the bay of Pollara, which is the only beach and town in Italy built on the remains of a volcanic crater. The area is located at the foot of the ruins of the so-called Castle, or watchtower, of Pollara.
2. Caper Tour & Tasting
Salina proudly claims to produce the world's finest capers, celebrated each year at a charming festival in early June. Pollara, the heart of caper cultivation in the Aeolian Islands, offers an unmissable opportunity to savor and understand the essence of this land. In Pollara, you can enjoy a tour of the plantation and production process. The tour culminates with a private lunch or dinner tasting where you can taste the best capers in the world alongside locally produced preserves, sauces, condiments, jams, and spices typical of the Aeolian Islands.
Salina’s capers, a symbol of the "Green Island," hold the prestigious title of Presidio Slow Food, safeguarding an ancient tradition in danger of fading away. The capers and cucunci, or caper berries, are reproduced by cuttings, a method now very rare, which makes the product such high quality. Amid Italy's 300 Presidio products, Salina's capers stand out, nurtured by the unique terroir between the Montagne delle Felci e dei Porri Nature Reserve and the sea. Hand-harvested and lovingly processed, their flavor is a testament to the island’s timeless artistry.
3. Swim: Le Balate & Pollara's Black Sand Beach
The drive down to Balate is windy, but gorgeous. Your final destination is the bottom of the crater at a place called Le Balate. You can't miss it. Park your vespa or car and walk down the steps till you reach the bottom. Here you'll find ancient fishermen’s huts and houses built within lava caves to shelter boats. The area is small, but worth a swim. You can float around the area and view the fishermen's huts from the water. Pollara's black sand beach is located a little further down the crater, but is only accessibly via swimming.
4. Punta Perciato
Lastly, head down to the end of Via Massimo Troisi and go down the stairs. To the right there is Punta Perciato volcanic stone arch, which you can be better enjoyed up close from a private boat tour of Salina.
5. Dinner: La Locanda del Postino
In the summer months, dinner is served on a panoramic terrace overlooking the sea and surrounded by the crater of Pollara. After the sunset, lanterns are placed on the tables to create a romantic and suggestive atmosphere. The low lighting allows you to admire the beautiful starry sky of Pollara. The focus here is typical Aeolian dishes and fresh fish utilizing herbs from their garden.
