My parents and grandparents are from Milano and Lago Maggiore, and I myself visit Italy at least once a year. As an Italian-American who has spent over 30 years visiting Italy (one could say basically a resident), I know the culture, language, nuances, and true local experiences of the country. That’s why I’m the perfect person to shed light on local places that most international travelers wouldn’t consider when visiting Italy, such as the Aeolian island of Panarea.
Panarea, the smallest and oldest of the Aeolian Islands, is a slice of paradise divided into 3 centers: San Pietro (the main port), Ditella, and Drautto. Discovered in the 1960s by artists and intellectuals seeking Eden, it’s now a magnet for the jet set, drawn by its black-sand beaches, thermal mud baths, and whitewashed houses framed by bougainvillea, capers, and prickly pears. Elite families like the Borghese, Visconti, and Bulgari clans, along with stars like Dolce & Gabbana, Kate Moss, Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Armani, the Prince of Belgium, and Abramovic have all fallen for its timeless allure.
Fun Facts about Panarea
- Panarea is a car free island.
- Traces of ancient volcanic activity can still be found in the vapors of a series of fumaroles, which emanate from the cracks between the rocks of Calcara beach and from the sea, where the gas escaping from the seabed forms columns of bubbles visible on the surface.
- You can find ATMs here, but no banks.
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@svadore Why Panarea is the best-kept secret in Italy (and why you need to know about it). 🤫 🌊 Full article on what to do on svadore.com, link in bio. #hiddenitaly #panarea #travelsecrets #aeolianisland #sicily ♬ L'appuntamento - Ornella Vanoni
Let's start off by answering the most commonly asked question...
Is Panarea a party island?
Yes and no - Panarea is and isn't a party island. During the peak hot summer months of July and August, Panarea is known for it's party crowd. It's where the rich and elite go to be seen. Places like Raya party it up till the wee hours of the night and you can hear music rumbling throughout the island. However, if you go during the quieter months of June and September, I promise you you'll find quite the opposite. We went in September right before the island shut down for the winter season and it couldn't have been more quiet and relaxing. I almost didn't believe it was considered a party island like Hvar in Croatia.
How to get to Panarea?
To get to Panarea, you need to take the ferry from Milazzo. The duration can be anywhere from 1h 30 min to 2h 30 min depending on whether you take the high speed ferry or not. The best way to visit Panarea is to couple it with a visit to another island, this way you can break up the trip. We had stayed on the Aeolian island of Salina first before visiting Panarea. The trip from Salina to Panarea was 30 minutes.
Quick Navigation
- Day 1 -
Check into Boutique Hotel
As soon as we arrived at the miniature port of Panarea, our boutique hotel sent a golf cart to pick us up and take us to the property. After all, there are zero cars on the island so the only way to get around is on foot, via scooter or via golf cart. Some of the golf carts even had what Pat and I called "working dogs" on the back!
Once arrived at our boutique hotel, we were greeted with a local coffee granitĂ while we waited for our room. GranitĂ is a quintessential Sicilian treat made from water, sugar, and fresh fruit. It comes in refreshing flavors like lemon, pistachio, and coffee, but Salina is famous for their sweet ricotta version. GranitĂ is often enjoyed for breakfast with a soft brioche bun, it can be eaten as a sandwich or dipped. Since our room wasn't ready yet, we left our bags with the hotel and decided to explore the port town of San Pietro and Ditella.
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Morning: Explore San Pietro
The heart of Panarea beats in San Pietro, a sun-drenched village where whitewashed houses pop against wild caper plants, swaying palms, and ancient olive trees. Mornings here are best spent meandering the quiet backstreets, soaking in the slow rhythm of island life—every villa is a character of its own, no two alike. The Church of San Pietro anchors the community, dedicated to the island’s patron saint who’s said to guard both land and sea. Just past the port and church, you’ll stumble upon a tiny thermal spring near Punta Peppemaria, where steamy waters hit 50°C (122°F) and locals swear by their healing magic.
In the mood to shop? Make a beeline for Moda Mare, an island staple since 1979, where you can design your own bespoke leather, suede, or beaded sandals—and have them ready before dinner.
For aperitivo, Il Bar del Porto is the unofficial stage for the island’s best people-watching. And when night falls? All paths lead to the iconic Hotel Raya.
Morning: Explore Ditella
Ditella, located farther up north, is a much quieter neighborhood. It mainly caters to waterfront villas and boatyards with piles of fishing tackle. At the farthest end of Ditella you will find Spiaggia di Calcara. This is another area where the thermal waters are used as healing properties.
Lunch
Panarea serves up lunch options like it’s an art form—whether you’re craving a casual bite or something a bit more refined by the sea, it all comes down to your mood.
For a laidback, grab-and-go kind of lunch—think panini, pizza, arancini, focaccia, and all the baked carb-y goodness—head to Da Claudia or Il Forno di Panarea (literally “the oven of Panarea”). Want to eat right on the beach? Da Claudia’s beach bar, Calabeach, is the spot… if you can score a seat.
Feeling something more local and homey? Le Delizie di Nonna Pasqualina is your go-to. It’s tucked next to the port, totally unfussy, and every single dish is made from Nonna’s handwritten recipes. She’ll even proudly explain each one to you. Expect soulful island cooking—eggplant caponata, baked zucchini with cheese, rice salad with tuna and shrimp, fried zucchini flowers (some stuffed with sardines, some not), lemon marmalade, and whatever else her garden and the sea have offered that day.
If you’re leaning luxe, Bridge Ammare is your move. It sits on Cala degli Zimmari, the island’s only sandy beach, and plates up fresh-caught fish with a subtle Asian twist in a breezy, beachy-chic setting.
Afternoon: Cala Degli Zimmari
Cala degli Zimmari is Panarea’s one and only sandy beach—and yes, that means it’s the go-to in summer. Locals also call it the “red beach” thanks to the sand’s warm, rusty hue that sets it apart from the rest of the island’s rocky coast. You’ll find it in the Drautto district, named after the Turkish pirate Drauth who once anchored here, using the surrounding cliffs as his hideout while he waited to ambush passing ships. Pirates, red sand, and sunbathers—this beach has seen it all.
Afternoon: Cala Junco
One of Panarea’s showstoppers is Cala Junco—a dreamy cove shaped like a natural amphitheater, framed by dramatic rock formations that cradle the sea like a hidden pool. The water here is unreal, shifting from emerald to turquoise to deep sapphire depending on how the light hits. If you hike just above the cove, you’ll stumble upon Punta Milazzese, a prehistoric village from the Bronze Age with the remains of 23 oval stone huts—proof that even ancient civilizations knew this spot was worth claiming.
TIP:
Remember to bring water shoes and snorkeling gear.
Dinner
We had dinner at Cusiritati our first night in Panarea, drawn in by two things: the sweeping views of the islands (including the moody, occasionally erupting Stromboli volcano in the distance) and their signature pasta made with scorpionfish—a local delicacy and a bit of a daredevil dish. Scorpionfish, known to lurk in Panarea’s waters, are venomous little beasts with spines that can do real damage if not handled properly. But cooked the right way (minus the toxic organs and roe), they’re totally safe to eat. Or so we thought. I’m not saying the scorpionfish definitely had it out for us, but let’s just say Pat and I both woke up with some…gastrointestinal side quests. Nothing major—we still powered through the day—but our stomachs were a little off for a solid 24 to 48 hours. Coincidence? Maybe. But the scorpionfish might’ve had the last laugh.
If you're not quite feeling adventurous enough for venomous fish, head to Antonio Il Macellaio—aka the island’s answer to your “I need a break from seafood” prayers. By this point in the trip, you’ve probably had enough fish to sprout gills, so switching gears with an Italian steakhouse feels downright luxurious. Open since 1970, it’s not only the only steakhouse in the Aeolian Islands, but it’s also earned some serious bragging rights. In 2021, their Spanish Wagyu snagged the “Best Steak in Italy” title at the Braciamancora contest, and they’ve landed on the top 21 steakhouses in the country more than once. Chef Marco Tesoriero knows his way around the world’s finest cuts—from Kobe to American Angus to Rubia Gallega and Baltic Scottona—cooked low and slow over a coal grill. Not into meat? They’ve got pizza too. And for the finale? Mamma Maria’s homemade desserts made with Sicilian ingredients seal the deal.
- Day 2 -
Full day boat excursion around Panarea
Before we hopped aboard our private old-school wooden boat (because yes, we're doing Panarea right), we swung by Il Forno di Panarea or Da Claudia to grab some panini, focacce, or pizze for the ride—plus drinks to keep things chill. The boat has a fridge, so we could stash our snacks and sip cold all day. We rented a charming, artisanal wooden boat that gave classic island vibes. Pro tip: ask them about snorkeling gear (do it!) or pick up your own in town before boarding. Cruising around Panarea by boat is the real reason people come here—you’ll get to weave around the dreamy, uninhabited islets of Basiluzzo, Bottaro, Dattilo, Lisca Bianca, and Lisca Nera. Total magic. If you don't feel comfortable driving your own boat or don't have a license, you can rent a full day skipper.
Pictured above is the Grotta degli Innamorati, or the Lovers’ Grotto, tucked inside the island of Lisca Bianca. Local legend says that if you share a kiss inside the grotto, you’ll be bound to your person for life. Romantic, a little mystical, and very on brand for the Aeolian Islands.
Optional: Stromboli Experience
Stromboli is a little island with a big personality—home to one of Italy’s three active volcanoes, it rises dramatically out of the Tyrrhenian Sea just north of Sicily. Its name comes from the Ancient Greek Strongyle, meaning “round,” thanks to its swelling, dome-like shape. With a population hovering somewhere between 400 and 850 locals, the island feels wild, remote, and powerful. Stromboli is constantly rumbling with minor eruptions, earning it the nickname Lighthouse of the Mediterranean. And yes—she’s still very much alive. Her most recent major eruption was as recent as July 2024. At the top are three active craters, and the Sciara del Fuoco (Stream of Fire)—a massive, horseshoe-shaped scar formed from thousands of years of collapses—sends lava sliding down into the sea. Stromboli’s signature volcanic behavior, called strombolian activity, is like nature’s fireworks: every 10–20 minutes, mini explosions shoot lava and glowing lapilli high into the air. Thanks to its continuous eruptions for nearly 2,500 years, this island has become a UNESCO World Heritage site and a living study for volcanologists.
If you're chasing that kind of night you'll never forget, there are two ways to do Stromboli right. Option one: hop on the evening excursion from Panarea around 7pm. As the sky fades into gold and indigo, you’ll cruise out toward the volcano and watch it put on its fiery show from a safe distance, guided by locals who know every rumble and spark. It’s raw, otherworldly, and seriously cinematic. Option two? Go full main-character energy and book a private water taxi to Stromboli. There, you can grab dinner at the island’s famed observatory—where you’ll be eating wood-fired pizza under actual lava. I mean… come on.
Dinner: Ristorante da Pina
Alternatively, if you're cooked from spending the whole day out in the sun, head to Ristorante da Pina. You can’t miss the opportunity to taste the famous dishes of delicious cuisine of Mrs. Pina Cincotta Mandarano. Pina opened her first small, 4 table restaurant in Panarea back in 1968. Slowly slowly it expanded to become the 80 person restaurant it is today. Her dishes became so well-known, she is considered one of the best cooks in all of the Aeolian Islands. Today, the restaurant is run by her children. She’s known for dishes like her big shrimp al cartoccio on lemon leaves, crostini with clams, lobster fettucini, and baccalà fish with capers. If you’re in the mood for meat, try the goat with olives. For dessert, try her frittelle di ricotta and pumpkin sfinci.
- How to Get Around Panarea -
Panarea is super small and therefore a car free island. The number one way to get around is on foot. There are some golf carts roaming the island that allow you to hop a ride from one spot to the next, so consider those your "taxis."
